Preserving Oklahoma History #103

This is preserving Oklahoma history, a collection of historical vignettes from the OEDA archive. Henry Overholzer saw opportunity in the Oklahoma land run, he loaded rail cars with building materials and headed for what would become Oklahoma City. The supplies and vision turned a prairie boom town into a state capital. In 1901, when Henry Overholzer began construction on a three-story tourtid mansion at the corner of 15th and Hudson, there wasn't much to the neighborhood. Now it's the home to some of Oklahoma City's grandest homes. It's a mix of different styles we'll call it Romanesque sometimes, but there are meaning and touches and a number of different architectural styles from the turn of the century that you see in the house. Today the Overholzer mansion is owned by Oklahoma's Historical Society and operated by Preservation Oklahoma.

One of the tasks that we took on as part of that and in partnership with OEDA was to get this house really restored. Katie Friddle is executive director of Preservation Oklahoma. We in about 2007 started just going from top to bottom to get the house back to its original glory. The first phase was to restore all of the windows. So all of the windows in the house are original to the house. We're taken out, restored, repaired and put back in. The next phase which we will be wrapping up in just a few short weeks was from the roof line up basically with the kind of the gutters up to the chimneys. So metalwork, tile, roofing, chimney caps, re-pointing chimneys, that sort of thing. Once that's complete the final phase of exterior renovation will get underway. The masonry work will be repaired and all the sandstone banisters painted brown back in the 70s will be restored to their original terracotta color. When the exterior is complete work will begin on the inside which is in remarkably good

condition. The ground floor is just as it was in 1903 when Henry and Annie Overholzer first welcomed guests into their opulent new home. The museum coordinator Lisa Escalon welcomes visitors today. She gave us the grand tour and revealed some of what makes this mansion so special. Starting with its grand staircase, it was imported from Belgium. The stained glass windows came from the Ford Brothers Glass Company in Kansas City. An office was commissioned from Kensington Academy in London to come over and hand stencil on paint the entire mansion. Just off the foyer is Mrs. Overholzer's withdrawing room. The wall sconces and chandeliers here were imported from Italy, brought in by way of New Orleans. And then the carpeting is another sign of wealth back in 1903. And these are exmenster and wilton carpets imported from England, then nailed directly to the floor with no finished edges. Over the mantle is a portrait of Mrs. Overholzer taken when she attended President McKinley's inauguration in 1900.

So she is wearing a Charles Frederick Worthgum as a House of Worth in Paris. Next to the withdrawing room is the music room, complete with its original piano and 1892 music box. Across the hall, Mr. Overholzer entertained gentlemen in this cozy room. But the main entertaining area was the dining room, where Oklahoma City's elite came to see and be seen. All the street names that you see, class and coal-court-curve after all those families, not only most like lived in the area, and they were all entertained here at the home. The dining table was set with limoes, china, and the finest crystal and silver. After the overholzer passed away, their daughter Henry Ione and her husband lived here as well. But they preferred to live and entertain more simply on the home's second floor. Their bedroom and living room are just as they left them, furnished in the style of the 1940s and 50s, and featuring that then modern marvel, the television set.

Ahasca is the capital city of the Osage Nation. The city is also known for the tall grass prairie preserve that attracts visitors from around the world. But what really built the city into what it is today, and made an Indian tribe very wealthy, was Oklahoma crew. The Osage Nation settled down here in 1871 and 72, somewhere around in there, and they came from their lands. They purchased this land that they sold, their Kansas land, with the money they sold it for, and they moved down here, and this was their home place, this was their reservation. And in the 20s, the Osage Nation held the minerals estate, the oil rights to this million and a half acres. So in the 20s, they were the richest people in the world.

Since then, only the big buildings with detailed architecture are left to show for the wealth this area once knew. Oil was discovered in Ahasca in a big way. This is where much of the history began for Philips Petroleum, Conaco, Scalies, and different oil companies. But in the early 1900s, the Osage tribal members moved to the outer borders of Osage County. Well, if you look around, you see that Philips is on the border there, Washington County, Osage County border, and Conaco was on the west border there in Ponca City, and then you have the others down towards San Springs and the Tulsa area. So I think because of the reservation status, probably that's where, that's why they moved to those other areas. Because it wasn't until 1906 that they had the Allotment Act and Osage owned the land. So it probably was, that's probably was one of the factors that they moved to those borders.

But they hauled all the oil out of here and still do to this day. Nearly all of the buildings along the historic downtown Main Street are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The first Osage Agency building is restored and in excellent condition. Old fixtures are still in place on the old bank. The unique triangle building that was recently purchased by the same family that renovated Tulsa's Mayo Hotel is about to get a renovation of its own. And unlike most small cities and towns in Oklahoma, this one is busy with people who live and work here. A lot of people that are living here now, do they commute to a lot of them or do they? So, you know, we're the county seats so we have the county courthouse and then we also, this is the capital of the Osage Nation. And there are also their campuses up there. And in the past few years, the Osage Nation has created about 1,400 jobs. Many of the Osage tribal members are Catholics.

Also on the National Register of Historic Places, the Immaculate Conception Catholic Church. What is so unique about the church is the stained glass windows. They were crafted in Germany and had to be hidden during World War I. The Osage window that we're most known for had to have special dispensation from the Vatican to have it created because the people that are in that window were all living. And there were no living people in sacred art of the church. So all of them were living in there with the exception of Father Schoenlaker in the center. And we don't know who all of them are. There was someone has records somewhere, but we've just haven't gotten our hands on them. In Oklahoma, Clara Looper will always be remembered as the mother of the city in a lifetime of dedication to the cause of civil rights that is forever etched her name in the history books. I read about the Montgomery Boycott, who started in December of 1955 and about Dr. King's involvement.

And later by the name of Rosa Park, I spotted that she wasn't going to pick it, she stayed on a bus seat. I had the opportunity to sit down in conferences and things with him, and I followed him all over the country. You all just stood off on school, huh? All right, see you later here. And I was impressed to with Martin Luther King first, because he understood what this country needed. For some strange reason I can never be what I ought to be, until you are what you ought to be. The rich man can never be what he ought to be, until the poor man is what he ought to be. Few people knew Dr. King before he won the 1964 Nobel Peace Prize. Clara Looper has the honor of marching and meeting with him. Well, I met Dr. Martin Luther King many times.

I was thinking in terms of admitting it was film funeral. I met him, I met him at NACP conventions. We were in Birmingham after the bombing of the church and those little girls were killed. I was at that film. I have met Martin Luther King many areas, and I was in Selma, and that's a day-by-day thing. We were in Washington DC. Clara Looper is no stranger to civil rights in Oklahoma. As the advisor to the NAACP Youth Council, she led the first set in demonstration in the nation in 1958. These demonstrations were so successful that they were used as the vehicle to obtain compassion and brought media attention to their calls. Even a Hollywood star acted on the call to come to Oklahoma City.

He was interested in civil rights. He came to Oklahoma City and marched with us during the city and moved men. That time he came to my house, which was a very small house on North East Park, police, made himself at home completely relaxed. Clara Nissenwater completely relaxed and forgotten their fist camera there. His wife and his the whole group that was with him. But he said one thing, I've come to stand for freedom, a wonderful man. And that's why he is now on our money, man, because once Charleston, Heston came here, the world had an opportunity to look at Oklahoma City. The theme song of the civil rights movement words have not changed,

but the focus is on a different note. We shall overcome, we overcome the nation that was so evident at the beginning of the 20th century. We overcome the poll tax, we shall overcome the segregation, legal, legal. The segregation of schools and other things that it took us some 99 years to do. But then each generation has the responsibility of overcoming something else. For example, now when we see, we shall overcome. We are talking about overcoming hatred based upon things that are not important. And that's race, color, the kind of hair that you have. We are talking about overcoming apathy, but you just don't care for what's happened. We are talking about overcoming the lack of motivation within your own selves.

We are talking about overcoming, not developing your own potentials. We shall overcome. Oklahoma City, I'm on Martin Luther King Avenue at the NAACP Freedom Center. This monument of images engraved in stone of national, state, and local leaders that have worked for the cause of civil and human rights in the country. It has been almost 34 years since America's first city and took place. A lot of progress and race relations has been achieved. But the quote, Dr. King, injustice anywhere is injustice everywhere. Claire Moore's Belvedere Mansion is a 1907 vintage home that was nearly lost to the wrecking ball, but is now fully restored.

It was saved with the hard work of volunteers and now welcomes visitors from around the world to sit a spell and have some tea. Claire Moore's Belvedere Mansion sits majestically on the corner of 4th and Chickasaw. The three-story brick Victorian sports are red tile roof and towers on each corner. Round ones in the front, rectangular in the back, and lots of intricate mosaic work, starting with the front porch. And continuing throughout the ground floor. The floor, as you see it, is all original. The tiles are imported from Italy. They're all Italian porcelain tiles laid piece by piece, not in sheets as they are today, but one by one by Italian craftsmen that were also brought over to do all the laying of the tile. The marble wine scoting that you see is all original. The press tin on the walls as well as the ceiling is all original. And the woodwork that you see here, as well as the open frat work,

was all brought from after the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair. Mr. Bayless had a box-carload of materials brought from those buildings that were torn down and were used in the building of this new home. Business tycoon John Bayless brought his family from Missouri to Clairemore in 1901. The next year he began construction on his castle-like home. However, he never got to live here after its completion in 1907, according to Kathy Wilkins. She runs the mansion. When he died of appendicitis before the home was completed, so his wife and their family lived here till about 1920. Then this house, with his proximity to the railroads, became a railroad boarding home. And in the 30s, the Bell family bought the home and it was turned into apartments. The Belvedere's walls are three bricks thick to keep out the heat and cold, and its original heat source may surprise you. The fireplace is original to the home. There are four of them on the main floor, and they were the only source of heat originally in the home.

The rooms were built with the pocket doors to close to keep the heat in the rooms, when they were downstairs. When it was time for bed, the pocket doors and the transoms above the other doors would be open, which would allow the heat to rise through the open gallery feature in the main hallway. By the late 80s, the mansion's only occupants were rats and pigeons. The reason this mansion was preserved was because of this lady, her name is Wanda Moore. About 1990, the city of Claire Moore wanted to tear this place down. She said, over my dead body. Moore helped organize a volunteer effort to restore the mansion and turn it into a home for the Rogers County Historical and Genealogical Societies. It's now outfitted with donated antiques. The only original furnishings are a few chairs and address one's own by Mrs. Bayless. Because the Historical Society gets no city, state, or federal funding, it opened the mansion for tours and transformed the first floor parlors into a tea room and gift shop. Point now coming up to the third floor of the ball of Belvedere,

which houses the ballroom of the home. Approximately 3,000 square feet. You could have a party and a half here. We have lots of weddings and receptions up here. Anniversary parties, proms for smaller schools have been held up here also. The center of the ballroom ceiling holds one of the mansion's most unique features, a giant skylight. Light from it shines throughout the mansion because it sits over a well that runs right down to the first floor. I've got to ask, are there any ghosts here? There are some that believe that they have seen ghosts here. I've been here 14 years and never seen one yet. But whatever spirits are here, they're definitely friendly spirits. Wilkins says, that's because no one's ever been scared away from the bell of the deer, since it was restored and opened to the public. For one group of Oklahoma seniors, it must feel like they are living in the lap of luxury.

And historians of pulp up building is now their home after a major restoration project that, like so many others, turned what was an eyesore into another piece of Oklahoma history reborn. This is the Wells Building today, as it sits on historic Route 66, the main thoroughfare of Sapolpa. The five-story building used to be an eyesore. For years, the brick was covered with a metal facade. Now the exterior is back, much as it was when it was first built 94 years ago. It sits right next to Sapolpa's historic courthouse. Now the Wells Building is an attraction here. It's the largest building we have. It's 47,000 square feet. And after you see the courthouse when you're driving into town on Route 66, it is the building that you see. It stands out. And we had a big metal facade covering up the beautiful brick. And now it's just gorgeous.

It's completely changed the architectural landscape of downtown. And it's kind of a source of pride now. Janet Beal is the director of the Main Street Program for Sapolpa. She couldn't be happier with the finished project. This is the common area which can be used by tenants to relax or entertain in. 32 apartments occupy the four upper floors. Seniors, 62 years and older on fixed incomes are the only ones who qualify to live in this now elegant building. This is one of the two bedrooms that we have available here at the Wells. It is actually the entire floor plan is 1,000 and 8 square feet for a two bedroom. So it's very spacious and very open here for entertaining in the living room. We've got the kitchen that's just right attached to it. The fully equipped kitchen is open to a living room with 10-foot ceilings. Much of the molding is original as are the window spaces giving the unit an old-world charm. In one of its two bedrooms, the view is of the adjacent courthouse. Decades ago, this room might have been an attorney's office.

I asked this was actually glass that was between some of the offices in the original building and they just painted over that and voila, you've got your instant picture frame. Down the hallway is the master bedroom. You can easily put a, you know, queen size bed, king size bed in here even, and still have room for dresser and nightstand and then a full closet there. Each apartment meets the standards of the Americans with Disabilities Act. An example is this easy access shower. Each floor has eight apartment units and the common hallway has been restored as well. Original mosaic tiles line the sides of the floor. Old doors to the many offices which were once here remain but they don't open, they're just for show. This is a furnished one bedroom apartment. Two walls of windows give it a great bird's eye view of downtown. And that's why Margie Carey picked it for herself. Well, I love the apartment itself because it's absolutely beautiful. I love living downtown. Right outside her door is the laundry area. Everything is just as she would have it.

The apartment that I came from was really bad. And getting to move into a place like this is such a privilege. Her rent is $415 a month. The two bedrooms go for $530 a month. So far 13 of 32 apartments have been rented out to seniors who qualify. The front entry is secure and once inside visitors see a well-appointed entry way. And while there is an elevator, the old stairs which show almost a century of where still remain as does the original postal box. And the still available office space for lease on the first floor comes with something to talk about. An old bank vault which still has safety deposit boxes inside. A creative person might just have use for the bygone built-in. 40% of this entire restoration project was financed through state and federal tax credits for historic preservation. And as you can see, the building is worth every penny, not just for new tenants, but for support as well. Birds of prey hold a special place in the hearts of many Oklahoma's,

especially with the state's many Indian tribes. Now in Perkins, Oklahoma, the new Eagle Aviary is home to 27 eagles. Many others have been rehabilitated and released back into the wild. But to keep this part of history alive and well. It does come at a price. Just two miles outside of the small town of Perkins, it's a quiet refuge for wildlife. The Iowa tribe built this place four years ago to give injured eagles a place to go. Some of the birds will be rehabilitated and released back into the wild. Others cannot be released because of their injuries. And if it weren't for the Eagle refuge, they would be euthanized. So that's that's our goal is to give these guys a home and try to give them some quality of life and let them live out their days and then as they moth their feathers, they will collect them and get them out to our tribal members for their yeast and their ceremonies and religious ceremonies and dance ceremonies. Vic Rubido is the wildlife manager at the Grace No Eagle House.

He says the feathers are very important to Native Americans because the eagle is a sacred symbol. We believe in our tribe and like other tribes that we believe the eagle is the only one that has seen the face of the Creator. And so for us to take those injured birds in, get them well, release them back out in the wild. Whether it belong, we believe that the Creator is going to bless us, bless our people for doing that. And visitors agree, people have come from all over the world to visit the unique eagle refuge. This couple is here from Chandler to see the eagles up close. They're very spiritual to me and very majestic. And this looks like an awesome place. I mean, just looking at them in here, they're, I mean, I can look at them right there, just sitting right there in the kind of giving goose bumps. There are 19 birds here today that have been rescued from all over the country, ball eagles that have been shot by careless hunters and golden eagles. These two came to us from the rehabber in Price, Utah. And they have a lot of golden eagles up there.

And a lot of injuries due to the coal mining industry. The one on the right was found, but he flew into a big dump truck hauling toe. And the one on the left got caught between the two cars on a train. And when he went down, well, the train ran over his wing. And they found it and they had to amputate his wing. He says the golden eagle typically prefers cooler climates and a nokele homea can only be found in the panhandle. But these injured birds will now call this their home. Rubido says they're turning away rescued eagles because of limited space. He says one of the things that stops other tribes from building an eagle refuge like this one is getting qualified people to take care of the birds. The dedication you have to be here, you know, seven days a week. They don't know when it's Thanksgiving. They don't know anything. It's just they need to be fed. They need to have their house needs to be cleaned. The water needs to be changed out.

And you got to watch them because in their world as raptors, they won't show any signs of weakness until it's almost too late. For this eagle caretaker, it's been a rewarding experience taking care of these sacred creatures. But it's also been a learning experience. We can learn a lot from from the wildlife. You don't always get to meet when people say dumb animals. It's just, you know, they're just not aware of what they can teach you. You know, they can teach you a lot of things just by observing and watching. And it's very smart. The Grey Snow Eagle House is open to the public, but they encourage folks to call ahead of time and make an appointment for guided tours. This is preserving history, a never-ending process of keeping what once was to remind tomorrow's Oklahoma Hormons of those that came before and the legacy we all share.