Inside Passage

To. The native people and the Inside Passage no for more creation stories that we've lived here since the beginning of time. These islands channels bays and beaches have always been central to our existence. The passage sustains us. Legends of it's real and supernatural beings inspire us. It's beauty power and turbulence are reflected in our spirits. The inside passage is just as powerful for those of us who came after and are

still coming seeking everything from salmon to solitude to snapshots here on the northwest edge of a continent. To our Inside Passage is made possible by grants from the Allen foundation for the Arts. Pendleton and Elizabeth Kerry Miller charitable foundation Beagley Family Foundation Douglas P. bigly Norman Archibold Foundation and by contributions to your PBS station from viewers like you. Thank you. You.

Know S.M. should know what you go us on this now. Hello my name is. You know what you Galla. I'm a member of the Lummi and squalid nations. These are our waters not that long ago. The only votes you see passing through here were my ancestors in canoes. And I'm Bob Simmons. I'm one of those who came after about thirty years ago the inside passage has changed so much in this thousands of years that people have found a home here. Yet one of the most astonishing things about the passage is the many ways in which it hasn't changed in all that time. It's still one of the most beautiful places in the world and it's become one of the most culturally compelling as well. It also served as a vital Marine Highway for doing business now. And from the time when business was done almost entirely in kind of at its southern end the inside passage begins here in Puget Sound side of Seattle and Tacoma on the ancestral homelands of the Squamish

Duwamish and more than 20 other Indian nations. From Puget Sound. The passage goes north. Past the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the San Juan Islands across the international border into the Strait of Georgia. Between Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia. After a thousand miles and thousands more. Islands includes channels and sounds. The inside passages northern end is the Alaska Panhandle home of the hiders and clean gets. Some anthropologists claim the first people to come here walk across the Bering Strait land bridge from Asia thirty thousand years ago. But there are other explanations for the passage and its peoples. Raven looked down one day and saw a tiny island below him and commanded it to become Earth.

The new earth grew and grew and grew. And then Raven cut it into two pieces. Out of this small piece he made Heideck Y. And that of the big piece. He made the rest of the world. Later. He heard a sound coming from a clam shell and he saw a small face there and then five faces and five little bodies. These were the first people. And that was the beginning. Since the first people arrived however they arrived the inside passage has inspired legends stories and chronicles of life on the edge of the sea. One story storyteller was Jonathan Raban whose book passage to Juno tells of his sailing trip north. In 1996. To put oneself afloat on a sea route his old heavily traveled is the inside passage

to join the epic cavalcade of all those present and past who found some meaning in these regions. Jonathan Raban was following in the wake of long ago explorers. Russians Spaniards and the English like cookand George Vancouver many seeking the Northwest Passage a short cut to Asia riches through an inconvenient North America composed of trees and rivers not Richards. Explorer. Wonderful guy. They've been 96. I came to a latitude of 47 degrees with a broad Let's see at the entrance of the strait. There is some the Northwest goes there off a great island. I saw people clad in animal skins. I thought that I had now well the liver my office seeking a Northwest Passage and not being armed to resist the force of the savage people. I therefore set sail and return

home where. Explorers like Juan de Fuca reported in their ships logs. Their first contact with natives. The natives passed their first contact stories along to their children and grandchildren. Practically every Indian nation on the inside passage has a story of seeing the big ships for the first time. Tulalip teller Johnny Moses. Long ago our people had legends of spirits or human beings arriving large canoes and that day arrived. When the people looked out the water. And they seen this. You. Can. Them until. They went out on their own canoes bearing gifts as they approached the large canoe. Europeans. Fired their cannon out of fear of the natives. No one has

to create a mist and. The sound of the gun was so loud and brought fear to the native people. They thought it was great and they asked the men on you can you. Are you spirits or are human beings. Thinking they could speak at least one of their languages. But there was no answer. Other early explorers were mapping what they thought their countries already own and protecting it from challengers. It was the Spanish who were convinced that they really owned the whole West Coast. Long and Bob has been studying Northwest explorers for decades. She owns the observatory a Juneau bookshop and they heard the Russians moving east from Siberia and they were feeling quite frightened. So they decided to send some expeditions up just forestall that. And of course sadly for them they were towards the world. They were at the very end of the

Spanish empire and England was the rising country. Vancouver was set to rule out the Northwest Passage because there was so much feeling in England that the Spanish the Portuguese had gotten Southern Oceans Well. God surely loved England best of all and there surely was a Northwest Passage and it was up to them to find it and they had been looking for a very long time. George Vancouver was pleasantly surprised by what he found in the Pacific Northwest. From his memoirs. The country presented a delightful prospect. Spacious Meadows elegantly adorned. Nature had provided the well-stocked park and wanted only the assistance of art. To constitute that desirable assemblage of surface. Which is so much sought to in other countries.

George Vancouver commander in chief H.M.S. discovered. In the early days Vancouver praised everything he saw. Seeing in the forested islands and flowing waters. A picture so pleasing could not fail to recall to our remembrance certain delightful and beloved situations in old England. But his view would change the farther he went. His first bad moment came in a place that looked like suitable passage but were tied wind and current can quickly combine to turn extremely dangerous and navigable only by the smallest boats. He had been deceived by the gentle tide so he named the place the

ception packs. Two hundred years later Jonathan Raban found the pass just as challenging as Vancouver. As the tide enters the funnel it feels the tightening constraint the land. The bottom the shallows and house sized boulders. Took some water up and make it tumble. With far too much sea trying to escape through far too small an output of. Liquid. That breaks out in the pots. He obstructed. Tide Wale's up vertically and mushroom top boils a dozen yards across. The surface of the water is pitching a small traveling whirlpools. Vancouver wasn't the first to approach deception pass with caution. My people knew the passes Jonas the place of whirlpools. Not so long ago the people of the Sammis tribe. Live near the waters of the deception pass. A young beautiful woman named Coquito

was on a vision quest for her scholarly to. During her quest. She saw a whirlpool in the distance. It became a handsome man before her very eyes. She fell instantly in love. So she returned to the sea with him. After time had passed. She returned to her village to announce her marriage. The people were shocked. Her skin was covered in barnacles and seek help was growing from her eyes and her ears. The people knew she was no longer theirs. They knew that her heart belonged with her love in the sea. In gratitude of her release to the sea. She still guides and protects our canoes through these rough waters. Sometimes you can even see her hair waving in the water. Just north of the San Juans. A traveller on the inside passage leaves the United

States crossing an unseen but at least my Canadians deeply felt borderline. From passage to Juneau. Here. Nature and politics appear for once to coincide here. Canadians can look out on America across the stretch of water that corresponds to the metaphysical Gulf of history taste and sensibility. But as every Canadian I know believes separates the two countries. Canadians. A classy room and here for a hundred and thirty nautical miles. America is blessedly over seas Georgia Strait may serve as a psychological border but it's not much of a physical one. Americans have been coming north for generations with a big invasion in 1897. It started when their ship landed in Seattle bringing wealthy men who were just found in the Klondike. The next morning the first of hundreds of ships full of

greenhorns prospectors left town for the goldfields. One inside passing away. Of the hundred thousand who sought their fortunes in the Yukon. Seventy per cent. Passed through Seattle. Which quickly doubled in size. And became the most talked about municipality in America. Full of merchants who made far more money selling supplies to the miners and most miners never made using. The lesson was not lost on those merchants and their descendants. Seattle has looked north ever since. Thousands of people still use Seattle as the gateway to the inside passage. But now it's the passage itself that draws the. Tourists come cruising for anywhere from three days to three weeks. One of the earliest tourists arrived in 1879. A Scottish

immigrant who would eventually become America's most renowned naturalist. John knew. Every face glowed with natural love of wild beauty. The islands were seen in long perspective the forests dark green with varying tones of blue growing more and more tender in the distance. Full of hazy meadows and lofty headlines with fine arching insteps dipping their feet in the shining water. Every eye was turned to the mountains by the Word of God was being read in the majestic hieroglyphs blazoned along the sky. JOAN. Was inside passage was full of noble red man Inconnu was invariably described as venerable. So we are possessed of great dignity. When these Indians talk to our interpreters they speak you find in an ornate

Victorian English with sonorous periods and over extended similes drawn from the natural world. It was Johnny on Indians whom Edward S CURTIS The Seattle based photographer pictured in the five volumes he devoted to the inside passage in his epic series the North American Indian his posts his studies with every trace of the modern family banished from the frame exults and the romance of the primitive in. This war. No no no no no no. No no no no. No not St. Nicholas Orthodox Church in Juneau built by plinky converts in 1894. Here their children and grandchildren gather on Sunday

morning to sing the ancient prayers watched over by iconic paintings of the missionaries and martyrs who first aggressively proselytized their ancestors. In the vestibule. St. Nicholas is history as presented in pictures of former congregations. Over time many Klinken accepted the Christian religious dogmas especially when they discovered that their shamans couldn't cure the new diseases like smallpox. The Westerners brought enticed to services by gifts. They also generally preferred the Russian Orthodox Church to other Christian faiths because its ceremonies were held in their own language. Most other missionaries and government officials prohibited any native languages in their services or their schools. The missionary Kerry Willard Haines Alaska October 1881 Raven is the Chilcat Supreme Being he is creator and Preserver of all things for not only

did he make the world but upon his wings it is born. The end of the world will come when he flies from under. The next World Order where you go aware Raven walking along the beach was the beginning of time the whole world was dark. The stars the moon and sun were kept in boxes by wealthy old man. He lived at the headwaters of the Noss river the fishermen of the night told Raveena of these treasures as a Raven. He went to the house call. There Raven. The song called his beautiful daughter. She is drinking water by the stream. He shows a spirit into a tiny Spruce. When the beautiful daughter drank. Raven fell into her cup. Or to swallow a swallow of Raven. As soon Raven grew inside of her she became pregnant and gave birth to Raven in the form of a human child.

While many clinked it's accepted the new religions they didn't abandon their traditional beliefs. They continue to hold their own ceremonies and they still do today. But there is one phenomenon that occurs in practically every culture and belief system on earth walk walk walk. Elder Vira Newman. The creation story that granny's tribe comes from. They decreased this joy in her Chrestus the butterfly and I starts with a great flood. Most of our legends come with the stories of the great flood too. Just like what you see in a Bible that really amazed me on the inside passage flood stories had a real natural origin. Even today some coastal peoples introduce themselves by saying Kohala question I am a descendant of those who survived the flood. George Vancouver August 1792. We have reached

a desolate and inhospitable country as the most melancholy creature could be desirous of inhabiting the eagle Crow and Raven that occasionally had borne us company in our lonely researches visited not these dreary show. Vancouver's initial euphoria with the inside passage diminish the farther north you went. You found the steep sided inlets near the Georges Street ugly intimidating and useless not the future sites of Englishes States that he'd seen before. The ruins of one miserable. It was the only indication we saw that human beings ever resorted to the country before us which appeared to be devoted entirely to the amphibious race seals and to see us. Unlike their commander. A middle class bureaucrat some educated almost

entirely at sea. Vancouver's officers the upper class sons of earls and lords were entering the realm of the romantic sublime the belief that nature to be true and beautiful must also inspire fear. From passage to Junho. This was a movement that had passed Vancouver. Here on the north west coast where the oceans sucked and grumbled. Captain Van was nearly at the heart of the Modise sublime. But nothing in the landscape stirred him to poetry. He found it simply an ideas of the sublime suspect and pretensions. From the mug of Archibold Menzies ship's surgeon July 1792 near the bottom of a deep Cove. There was a beautiful waterfall which issued from the lake close behind it. It's wild romantic appearance rendered it a place of resort a small party of state. Vancouver didn't feel that way and his feelings have endured in his name for.

This area afforded not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye. Once the place obtained the name of desolation. For believers in the romantic sublime the lands and waters of the inside passage were beautiful because they seemed dangerous for native peoples they were dangerous. One of the stories that Granny told us when we were young about the wild man of the woods simple question.

Of course. Is a very shy man. He always comes the good and turns all the time behind to make sure that no one is looking at him. Because he doesn't want anybody to see him. Then digging for cause guess that's what he likes. The. People I get lost at sea people I never I've never found. They so part of what they say is that they turn into a course because they end up in a war. Whites felt more at home on the land. But our ancestors lived on a ribbon of

shoreline. Their lives were centered on the water the sea the sound the rivers. To. Sing at ten to statist to stand in. Long ago in ancient times. Our native people were afraid of the water. Until one day our people looked out into the water and the waters spoke to. Me Tahj to quit taking. And they heard the voices of the world and it said not to be afraid. They seen the sparkles of the water. And they knew. That it was their ancestors. And to this day. Our people know. Every time we look out into the waters and see sparkles we are not alone. Saw.

German geography or a Krouse 1881. In spite of the fact that's a Klingon is constantly surrounded by nature he is only acquainted with it as it offers him the necessities of life. He knows every base that lends itself to fishing odds of Beeching of a canoe. But the mountain peaks Goslee noticed by him a brief visit to se Alaska oral Krouse apparently failed to notice that the famous Chilcat Klinken blanket was woven from mountain goat wool. But most coastal Indian life was just that coastal and it began in a longhouse facing the sea a central dwelling place but also an arena where people held ceremonies and social gatherings and where learning and sharing of life ways took place usually built of cedar logs and planks. Each longhouse was a work of art where the history of the extended family that lived there is told in ornate carvings and paintings using designs crests and symbols

handed down from generation to generation in the longhouse. Indian people kept their treasures. It's where Nasha Shikoku of the Kinkade's kept the sun the moon and the stars until raven came along disguised as a man. Raven had a plan. It's going to get the stars the moon and sun. For all the people of the world. He pointed to the first box the one that contained the stars and he began to cry. No. You can't have that. But like all grandfathers he gave in to his grandson. He took that box down the box that contained the stars and he placed it in front of his grandson. To play it on that box when nobody was looking brave and open that box and the stars flew into the nighttime sky for ever. God has

call my precious objects gone. Raving. He did the same with the moon and the sun box and when nobody was looking. Raven took the last box. The one that is called The Box of Daylight's. In 1914. Edward Curtis made a film which he titled In the Land of the headhunters. Undoubtedly Tanushree and thrill seeking white audiences. It was much more reasonably retitled in the land of the war canoes in the 1960s. Even with its Stael boy meets girl plied the film attempted to accurately portray the life of the Quoc clock. You are of British Columbia but not when it was made more like a hundred years before.

For the quack quack quack in their cultural and geographical neighbors. The sea was essential to existence. Bill Cranmer one of the hereditary chiefs of the first nation. Like many of our neighbors. The speaking people who we now call a Quaker Kulap. Were connected to the sea in many ways during many seasons. Our people would move from place to place in their canoes for harvesting their resources. Even a lot of our creation stories are connected to the undersea Kingdom. The salmon never returned. Every year the halibut other people caught and prepared to take them to the winter months. All the resources of the sea were used by our people. That's what allowed them to survive.

On. Your course Saudi. National Jewish. There is a village. In front of a glacier. One day this glacier began to move forward the water began to rise. The village began to flood. They knew they had to find a new location for their village. The men took their canoes out to find this place and they were gone. The women the children and elders were left behind to pack away their objects their precious objects. They stuck everything out on the beach. The glacier moved forward and soon they found the old village under water. All that was left was just this beach. They didn't know what to do.

They asked a cow to kill Karl Haas. Look after us look after us. And they slapped when they awoke there's four canoes on the beach. They don't know where they came from but they didn't question this. They took all their belongings to the canoes and they headed out. It was as if the canoes were alive as if they move through the water by themselves. They met up with the men they went to the location of the village. They were happy to see each other. They unloaded all of their belongings and the men asked where do these canoes come from. And they turned to look at them and watch for whales slowing away. When your existence is tied to the sea much of your life is spent on the sea.

So the canoe was an essential part of that life for my grandfather. He used to pull out in the waters pull canoe. It's my great grandfather's. And that was their main mode of transportation they would just get in a canoe and pull to the villages. And of course it didn't take 10 to 15 minutes that it does now to go to a reservation. The next reservation but once they got there. From the stories that I've been told is they had celebrations in there. There is such a happiness to see each other and. In. Such a warmth and that the whole journey was always worth it. Oh. Deborah Parker a member of the Tulalip nation is one of many now reconnecting to her heritage in history by pulling canoe as her ancestors did so. So

every part of the experience that I've witnessed is when I'm in a canoe. And I've known that. My ancestors have been through these waters. That. That to me. Brings me alive that to me reminds me that I do have a strong culture and do have a strong path. When I'm in my own waters when I'm up around El-Amir when I'm around. The islands up north because there's no other feeling. Vancouver and all the other explorers and missionaries saw a lot of Indian canoes. They needed to trade with the Indians to replenish their food supplies in turn. Native peoples were curious about the visitors and looking to do some business.

Well this summer and they should be very busy there putting up fish and they used their winter supplies for picking berries. Got all this stuff they have to do so why would they have the ships wait and wait around wait around. And it just hit me one day when those little epiphanies. Yes. And then you realize you have no way on earth to prove it. I think it was entertainment the circus had come to town here with these strange men and the funny looking clothes these funny looking ships. They had all the trade goods they had all these strange ways. They were so entertaining. One of the great advantages the native people had in trading was that they had been trading among themselves for Lord knows how many hundreds if not thousands of years they were very astute clever traders. And when they sold the European traders came along could freshmeat. Once upon a time people made their way across the sea by reading the surface shapes and colors of the water. On clear night. They took their direction from the Slavs. By day they sailed by the wind way.

Wings made itself most useful for navigation purposes by generating sweat. Whatever the prevailing seasonal wind with registering the stop the movement of the sea. Swell continues for many days and sometimes thousands of miles up. When it first raised it has blown itself out. I love this because they deflect the direction swell can be felt from a great distance by sensitive island as the depths of the Seas decreases the swell steepens warning of imminent landfall. Sailing by swell entailed an intense concentration on the character of the sea itself. George Vancouver was a brilliant navigator and a master sailor. But there are places in the inside passage where the wind and the tide can turn treacherous. Is Vancouver. The day he rammed the discovery aground. In the Rocky shallows of Queen Charlotte Street.

It's almost Manby master's mates. The ship struck on a reef of rocks. Every effort made to disengage. Unfortunately the hive was running strong seven long and tedious hours. We sat on the ship's side. Running aground was unpleasant and embarrassing for Vancouver. And his outlook soured even more when the discovery finally arrived in Alaskan waters and he met the Klingons. Jonathan Raymon the Klingon Swan northerners living on the same latitude as the citizens of Aberdeen Scotland parsimony and joylessness. What the English always expected of people of the Noll's and they were quick to nail the Klingon says surly mean and rowdy. It was as if Discovery had made a three quarter Sercombe navigation of the world only to be surrounded by a race of grim half naked

Scotsmen with insipid ornaments and bows and arrows. One chief advanced a powder horn was across his shoulders on a clean bright brass blunderbuss lying near him which he frequently took up and pointed at Mr. Whitby George Vancouver feeling surrounded. From passage to Juneau. Alaska has been continuously beset by transients hunter gatherers equipped with harpoons dynamite shovels axes. Backhoes gold pans oil drills chainsaws and fishing nets. Few of the rooms had any intention of separating the land. They came to plunder. Home was found elsewhere. They have no interest in farming. The Alaskans saw it in 1958 when statehood was counted and the 20000 acres were under cultivation.

In 1880 a Klingon chief showed two prospectors a on Gastineau canal in Southeast Alaska that was laden with quartz laced with gold. Native People weren't allowed to file mining claims on their own land but these white newcomers were. They established a town in the traditional homeland of the Ark Klinken a town that would become Juneau. During the next half century. Men would come from all over the world to work in the mines. Or up Juno's gold belt wasn't washed out of streams by prospectors. It was chewed out of mouth. And the raw or run through tunnels down piers on boats went through loud work. It's called. Hard rock. Mining. Tons of granite were ground up for every ounce of gold recovered

a fine ground to sand for which the gold is recovered. But these larger rocks were passed over endless belts a hundred yards long. Tom steward a member of the cleanup gang and they had native Filipino laborers stood up against the belt and they picked off every rock that showed corks I picked up after spills from the grinding machines my father described my job as chief engineer on a number to shell. How I got to shovel lots of muck. But eventually there was just too much Mark for the amount of gold it yielded. The mines closed. The buildings were abandoned. The docks rotted away. And Alaska. Perhaps inexhaustible only in rain and vegetation grew up around the ruling's.

Alaska had been ransacked to be anywhere else in the world. Such punishment would have left a permanently wrecked ground zero. But the climate was astonishingly forgiving. One hundred and sixty inches of rainfall or a great hero did landscapes. In Alaska. The wilderness quickly grew back. To cover mankind's ugly depredations. We used to have run a and year in and made. The news with the first run. And the second. Runner. Show up in August about the same time as the freezer. Fast here Roy Cranmer and his crew have been fishing together out of alert Bay for 50 years. Ever thought about that. You know you're saying that I've never had a good feel. I started with a Porsche Cayenne. Pepper.

Here they were here. But now according to the people in power who oversee fishing some fish runs and especially salmon are dangerously diminished. The fisheries have. Last year we had I think it was either six or ten hour one ten hour opening. These fish are going by. Roy and his crew are members of the first nations. So loss of fishing isn't just an economic hardship for them it's also loss of an important part of their culture their history. By the time George Vancouver got to Alaska he didn't want any more adventures. He was tired of the journey and deal with what he described as a tax of no use calling.

Thomas. Manby. Good health continues in our little squadron though I'm sorry to add. Not that good fellowship which subsists with adventurous traveling these distant seas owing to the comforts of our commander in chief who has grown haughty proud me and insolence which has kept himself and officers in a continual state of wrangling to the whole of the voyage. I remained in the most uncomfortable state of suspense that can be imagined until Tuesday August 19 1794 when we had the indescribable satisfaction of seeing the four boats into the harbor together. George Vancouver waiting for the last survey party long overdue. So with the northwest coast chartered and the non-existence of a Northwest Passage conclusively proved George Vancouver went home to England to write his memoirs and die young unheralded and promoted.

He had offended the wrong people. He did a lot of flogging and course flogging is very common in the British Navy then but he did even more than his share and he flogged Thomas hit twice and then sent him home and when he got back home when Vancouver reached England that is all he discovered. His father had died and he was now Lloyd can with Floyd and his uncle was the prime minister William hit. Bad timing for. Vancouver's legacy isn't in England but on the passage he renamed practically everything he saw be placing ancient and intriguing native names with tributes to his crew his sponsors and powerful English families. Vancouver's exploring successor's continued the practice spreading leg beach became alert Bay lifestyle or having mouth upstream became point McNeile. The island named in honor of Admiral Poultney Malcomb was previously black skees or seaward opposite

beaches in hundreds of wonderfully helpful names like sail taking place shallow in middle of water and having spider crabs were last for ever. From Seattle to Skagway boats full of tourists by the thousands that helped make up for the logging fishing and mining industries that sustains so many. But the summer invasion of cruise ships is a mixed blessing. Kai Augustine of Juno there are some minuses when you get a block or two ships like maybe seven. All the local people stay away from all. The story the people as 10000 people at one whack. And that's called in a crew. I was hired to go on their boat Westerdam and I was on there

two weeks and I did my beating. The whole trip was paid for and everything that I did on the boat was paid for and all I had to do was show my work two hours a day and that was WAY. I loved it. That Klinken Priscilla MARTIN I think I was the local color curiosity but I enjoyed it I really did. I think my husband drag me out of there kicking and screaming. I just loved it. I loved Priscilla Martin perpetuates her Klingon heritage by beating and there are hundreds of other native artists working to sustain and advance the ancient skills like walk walk you walk silversmiths Cody Nelson I'm going to be making a killer whale here and this this man here will be had these two on the side.

We're going to be friends with the killer whale every time I go to the museum or something now he's trying. To make a point I'm going to look at their collection. I often think about what it must have been like for the older people. Because they didn't have these type of tools and. To be able to. Have to pound down the coins and stuff that they just. Look different then. Now. When I'm working on here I got a four foot pole happening. And. Even at the top you know the bottom here is have a chief and he'll be holding the speaker's staff. Stephen Bruce.

You have to. Keep pushing forward and. Always be learning. Is there to. Make for a totem pole. We may take a walk down to the cemetery there and look at all the eight years of what. We're doing and maintain some of those ideas. Artists and visitors can see remarkable Kwaku key pieces in the Potlatch collection at the cultural center and alert Bay. Potlatch is a Chinook jargon word for an Indian ceremonial gathering both spiritual and social. Mr. means returned treasure and that's what these pieces are sacred

objects taken by the Canadian government from numbed us members arrested for potlatch. Most of the art was returned after almost 60 years and the culture is returning as well. Central stories traditional and ancient songs and dances and the native languages that officials tried so hard for so long to suppress and eliminate pop books on piano and on and going off. On them. The one who gets to the story that granny used to tell us when we're young we're somebody a young boy who was born with a Hare-Lip because of that. The other children or the village would not play with them. They always make fun of him he says. La la. La. La la was a big white woman of the word and he was a big giant big

breasts and big hollow eyes then big red person lips that went through. Ooh that sounded to me and the children of the village were told never to go to a certain part of their field because of a Juno because it will eat the children. But because of their rejection from their other children I guess I was never allowed to play with them. And one day. Some gets to. Say that to an end quite soon. Yes I just laugh. Yes that taught us. I work hard to keep our language alive and to be part of the cultural rebirth.

I watch our clock work people if I have the opportunity to live to 300 years years ago. I would love to. I'd love to. Raise my children in that sort of environment where teaching with teachings come come to them through the elders through through. Exploring through the land and on the water. I think that's what I'm searching for now in this modern time is. Searching for that way to raise my children so that they know what it's like to have peace with the land and to be at peace with himself. I think they'll be happier people. I would trade it for anything and do it all over again. Vancouver's early version of the inside passage is the future home of stately mansions and lush gardens. Has happened in some places. In the San Juans. And tulip fields of the Skagit Valley where Dutch immigrants

Holland of the New West. And make it happen. But there are still many places on the inside passage that look the way they did when Vancouver first saw them. The Indians had lived on tiptoe in small numbers on the extreme fringes of the far east valley grazing the surface of the water. Then the great self-important juggernaut of American capitalism rumbled through the Pacific Northwest clearing with chainsaws paving it with asphalt building bridges banks and towers tract housing and all the rest. Yet only a mile off shore you'd hardly notice. So Mahdi's seems its impact compared with the urgent pressing of the forest and swirl of the tide. Squint a little and you might for all intents and purposes be back in 1792

looking out on a nature that still awaited. Men with grandiose designs a plan. For. Those men and women are still coming to the inside passage but now they come faced with a challenge a warning of sorts from the man who lies buried here on a hillside overlooking the lands and waters he cherished. He was a chief of the Duwamish in Squamish named Psy-Ops which was Anglicize to Seattle and then given in his honor to a city he helped found in 1854. Chiefs made a speech in the Duwamish language that those with grand designs on the inside passage should remember there is still

controversy about whether this is a romanticized translation of his speech. But that doesn't make the words any less powerful now to newcomers and to the native peoples who are working today to preserve and invigorate their cultures and traditions. And when the last red man shall have perished. And the memory of my tribe shall it become a myth among the white men. These shores will swarm with the invisible dad of my tribe. And when your children's children think themselves alone. And. The. Store you shop on the highway. Or in the silence. Pathless way. They will not be alone. At night and the streets of your cities and villages are silent. And you think them deserted. They will throng returning at once filled them and still love this beautiful man.

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