Julia Child - Cooking With Master Chefs; #115; Jacques Pepin

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By Braun, makers of the Braun Handländer with chopping and whipping attachments, the Braun Handländer enables the home chef to prepare a variety of dishes, by the corporation for public broadcasting, and by annual financial support from viewers like you Jack Pippin is a man of boneless and seemingly inexhaustible energy, he's author of seven books, countless magazine and newspaper articles, and hopes his own television programs, not only a master chef but a master teacher, Jack is dean of studies at the French culinary institute in New York, a

highly regarded professional instructor and lecturer on gastronomy at Boston University, and he's author of seven books, countless magazine and newspaper articles, and hopes his own television programs, not only a master chef but a master teacher, Jack is dean of studies at the French culinary institute in New York, a highly regarded professional instructor and lecturer on gastronomy at Boston University, and he's constantly teaching and demonstrating his technical virtuosity, when you're a professional cookie says, you become a good craftsman first, you repeat and repeat and repeat until your hands know exactly what to do without you having to think about it. Chef Jack is about to teach us his thoroughly modern version of a splendid French classic, a voleau of braised sweetbreads in a truffled madera sauce. He will show us in detail the making of puff pastry, and his ingenious method of forming a puff pastry crust, a voleau. Then we're to witness the care feeding and braising of sweetbreads and how to deal with a large black fresh French truffle, and finally how to make a really great sauce. This is definitely a dish for those who love to cook or who love to eat when somebody else cooks it. First the puff pastry, here it

is raw, it looks just like a plain piece of pastry dough, and here it is baked. It puffs up in the oven because of the way it is rolled out, folded up and rolled out and folded up until it consists of hundreds of paper thin layers of dough, sandwiched between hundreds of paper thin layers of water. Here's the way Jack Peepam makes his. We're going to do a puff pastry, a classic puff pastry, and that you can use for hundreds of different things. Flour, this is all purpose flour, and the different flour will indicate different type of gluten, this is the whole purpose flour, butter, water, this is basically an dash of salt in it. We start with a pound of flour, and as you can see, I dip that directly into the bin, and I come out with three cup of flour. Three cup of flour is a pound of flour, if you take it the way I'm taking it. So I have a pound of flour here, a little dash of salt, and now I put some water in it, and I

start with about a good cup of water. It depends where you are, depending whether it's very humid or very dry, and that will determine the amount of moisture in there. So you want that dough first, and I need a little more water here. Until it practically form into a bowl, and we're going to roll that on the table, and I have three quare of a pound of butter here. So I need a little bit of flour to roll that in, into a large rectangle, approximately three -eighth of an inch thick. A rolling pin, there is different type of rolling pin, I tend to go toward that type of rolling pin, which is straight, equal size all over. But believe me, if you were to do a big puff paste, like two or three pound of puff paste, you'll probably get one with

bowl bearing, you know, a larger one. So I spread this out about three -eighth of an inch, and I'm going to arrange my butter on two -third of the dough, and I have three stick of butter. Each of those stick of butter here has been cut into four pieces, meaning that I have three -six pieces of butter this way. You want to be, no, you know, not quite up to the edge. And what I do at that point is to take a third of the dough, which is not covered, cover that on top, and bring that back on the other end. And so now I have already started the process of puff paste. This is what the process of puff paste is, is to put layer of bread dough, if you want, layer of butter, a fat. What happened is that when you put it in the oven, the liquid that you put in the bread dough is going to develop into steam. But of course, you have all of those layers of butter,

which are going in a sense to waterproof the dough, so it's going to start pushing and developing in the multi -layer effect of what we call puff paste. So I break it like this and extend it to, again, a large rectangle. Now the dough has to be cold, everything has to be cold, it's better, otherwise the butter may tend to break right through the dough. And you don't want this to lift it up to be sure that it's sliding underneath. You have to roll it this way, as well as this way. And now I have that long rectangle, and now we fold the dough by bringing it in the center, on each hand, and folding it in two again. What does that give me? It gives me four layers of dough. So you work by

multiple of four, when you get to a dough, which is totally finished, that if I'm rolling it four times, I'm folding. I will have, believe it or not, close to 1 ,500 layers of bread dough and fat. Now I grab it, refrigerate it. I have one here which has been refrigerated already, and I've already given two more turns to this one. So I did exactly what I did for the first one, let it rest, and now I also roll it again twice, fold it, now it's ready to be used. And I'm going to do, then I'll roll over. I'm going to roll it and put it on a thick heavy aluminum pan, line up with parchment paper. As you can see here, I extend it. I'm going to cut it in two. I have

more than enough with this. Actually, I will only use half of that by the time I have all the trimming around. So, the more water you have in the dough, the more elastic the dough is going to be. And at that point you can extend it very, very thin. Now look at that, I want to roll this too. I don't know, probably less than 8 of an inch. I'm going to cut about not quite in the middle, a bit of a smaller piece here. And as you see, it's a bit elastic, it starts raining. Putting it on my cookie sheet. Leaving this one on the side. What we do here, one layer in the bottom, and we put something in between. I'm putting aluminum foil here to hold the dough on top. I'm doing a ball with it. I need more than that. You can do

that with actually another type of parchment paper or whatever. But you want a ball about that size, flat that we put on top here. This will go on top of it. That's why I have to roll it back on this. And what I may do first is to cut a little bit of the dough here that I need for decoration here. Then roll gently your dough on top of the rolling pin. And you want to weight this outside with water to be sure that it's going to glue well. You can use eggs, but water is perfectly fine. Actually, and bring that back on top here. Now what I do, I actually pull that up and extend it to make like a tent if you want, you know. So that is holding through. I really use a minimal amount of dough here. What I'm going to do here is to use a round thing. This is the bottom of a wok.

And use that. Maybe a bit of flour so it doesn't stick on it. And put it there to get about my size about here. So I cut it with this. I can remove it now. Remove all of the trimming. Okay. So we could press the outside. Maybe I'll use a fork to be sure that it's nicely glued together. As you see, I need to put that in flour so it doesn't stick. And to decorate the outside and making sure that it's going to stick well together. That gives you a decorative edge also. So that will glue it together nicely. As you can see, you can see the aluminum foil underneath with very, very thin. I have maybe five ounce of dough here. Now you can span a lot of time now if you want doing decoration. Or you can use it directly like that in the oven. Here I can

cut a little bit of the side here. That like the dough is still slightly elastic. And then of course you want to glue it with something. And I have an egg here to give me the shine that I need. And we brush all of the dough. You see the dough is kind of tart here like a drum, you know. And that will of course prevent it from getting soggy inside also. Okay, so the top part of it, we're going to glue that little piece here to do like if you want the lid on top. After it's cooked, what we'll do, we will cut that piece here. So you want to be sure that there is a glaze all over,

you know. And it's much better to do it a little bit ahead and refrigerate it before you cook it. If you cook it too fast, you can cook it now, but it tends to shrink. Let the dough relax. The best way is to put it in the refrigerator for half an hour or an hour before you cook it. This triumph of pastry making is well worth your time to master. The things to remember are above all, take your time and keep everything chilled if the butter begins to soften the dough is impossible to work with. Another good thing to remember is that you can make your puff pastry days, weeks, even months in advance. I've actually had some of my freezer for two years and it's still beautiful. Chef Jacques is going to fill his volleyball or pastry container with braised calves, sweetbreads. And here's what they look like. There are two kinds of sweetbreads, there's the throat and the pancreas. We have the throat sweetbread which is kind of fat and long. Jacques prefers the pancreas which are two lobes

like that. But whichever you get, they'll taste the same. Sweetbreads are perishable, so when you get them, cook them as soon as possible. Most of them nowadays are all cleaned and ready to cook. But if they earn a spotless pinky creamy color, you'll have to soak them for several hours and several changes of cold water. For this recipe, you want three pounds of sweetbreads, and you're to blanch them which firms them up slightly. As you can see here, you see that's firm and the other was squashy. To blanch them, Jacques sets them in a pan of water. He brings them to the boil and boils them for one minute. Then he removes them to a bowl of ice water until they're chilled. Then he picks them over to remove any surface sinews and places them on a cookie sheet lined with a clean towel and sets a second cookie sheet on top. He waits it

down with several cans of food or milk kernels, refrigerates them for several hours, and they're ready for braising. Now it is time to finish and cook our sweetbread. The first thing to do, I'm going to put two tablespoons of butter here. The sweetbreads have been pressed now. We're going to season them with salt and freshly ground pepper, or with the important to have freshly ground pepper. This will take approximately two and a half minutes on each side. And remember here we have three pounds of sweetbread, which would be probably enough for six, eight people. Then with that sweetbread, what is browning, we're going to do the sauce. And the sauce here is made from a brown chicken stock, browned the bone in the oven, water, and to that extent, there is no seasoning in it, no salt, no paper. So I have that brown stock here, which is reducing to create the sauce. What I want to do is

to pick up about half a cup of that stock. This is going to be used in the braising here with some white wine. And that sauce here I wanted to reduce to about two cups. So what we do here is about half a cup of the madera we add to our stock. Remember that by the time it's finished cooking, most of the alcohol is going to be evaporated, only the taste is going to remain. You can check your sweetbread. You do the nicely browned, that's what you want, a little bit of a crust on top, firm them. And now it has to cook again on the other side for another three, four minutes to brown nicely. Now it is browned on each side, which is what you want to do. So the process now is to braising, so we're going to add liquid. The liquid, remember, is half a cup of madera here, and about the same amount of white wine that I'm putting around here, a

dry white wine that we put on top. I'm going to put a lid, now you want to reduce the heat, and I'm going to braise that gently for about 30 minutes right here in the back. And then we're going to continue the sauce. Remember, this is still reducing. It's a very lean stock, because you see there is no fat on top. But what we're going to add is vegetable to it to give a nice fresh taste. And what I have here, celery, leek and carrot, different color, and different taste. So I want to put first, again, two tablespoons of butter about there. So you see, except for the butter to saute the sweet bread. And of course, a little bit in the vegetable, the stock is very lean, and that's what we want. So this, we are going to do so called a brunoise with that. That is, it indicates a way the vegetables are going to be cut. Nice color,

nice texture. I should have about enough here. So what we love to do is to put that directly with our butter here. You can bring it right there, push it into it. We want to saute that for a minute or so. We want also to flavor it with fresh thyme. I have a beautiful fresh thyme here, as you can see. And usually, the stem of that you can use in stock, but I'll take the an of it, the tender leaves, you know. And if you don't have that, actually, you know, dry thyme is quite good also. So I put that in there. We saute it, but we don't want it to brown. We want it to kind of braised also. So what do we do for that? We put a little bit of moisture, a little bit of water, like a sort of a cup. Bring that to a boil and we cook it about 10 minutes covered. Until belly clear, there is no moisture left. I can see that my vegetables

are ready. Now you can see there is belly clear, no moisture left. That's what I want. The stock has reduced also to a rich brown color. Now, I will test it. Remember, no salt until that time. So if I want to put a little bit of salt, and if I like it slightly darker, instead of putting salt, I'll put a little bit of soy. The soy will put a dash of darker color to it, and at the same time give me a bit of salt. That basically it now. What I want to do next is another type of flavoring, which is our truffle. This is really splurging, and what I have here, I have black tuberum, melanosporum, so -called, this is the real black truffle of Perigo. What I do first is to take the top that is that very rough skin on the outside. We're going to peel it, and I can see the inside of the truffle, what we call the miscellium. This, and I know that that truffle is ripe, just

the color of it, because it has that brown beige color, which indicate a ripe truffle. That tougher part of it, we're going to chop it coarsely, and that is going to be added to the sauce. But I want to add it at the last moment. The reason is I don't want to lose any of the taste, and a great amount of the taste of those truffle is olfactory, that is the smell. And if you do it too long ahead, you lose too much. So I chop that coarsely, you chop it because of course it's a bit tougher, and we want to add that to our sauce right here. And with that, we put a little dash of cognac, like one or two teaspoons at the most, and now our brown sauce, what I'm going to do is actually combine

it with the vegetable here. So you have a knife, and what I want to do next is simply cover it, let it steep a little bit. Now the rest of the truffle that I have here, I use one truffle. You can splurge it a little more. I use a vegetable pillar to get nice thin. This we're going to put on top of our sweet bread for decoration. If there is pieces broken, you can add them to the sauce. So I put that in there, and again covering it maybe with a tiny bit of cognac, we'll put that on top of our sweet bread when we present it at the end. And now the best part, of course, is to serve it. As you can see, this slide very nicely, and the reason is that, because I have paper underneath, nothing burn, beautiful color. As you can see here, I have a beautiful brown color all over. This is very light, and I know

it's cooked. So what we want to do now, with a knife, you can even hear it, our crispeted, I will cut that very thin lead, you know. Here it is. And you can see the whole thing will come out. Sometimes the hat comes out first. This one seems to think. So what you do, you want to press it a little bit, you know. So that it comes into a one piece like that, very crisp. Okay, now our sweet bread are totally braised. Now as you can see, there is no liquid left. And those sweet bread, you can serve them whole, or you can actually, you know, take it and cut the inside. Okay, a beautiful white creamy color that they are. And this, we're going to arrange that all around, and in the same time inside, you can cut it smaller or larger piece inside. Let's put this here.

This is a rich dish, very classic, but remember, you don't have to do that strictly with a sweet bread. You can do that with breast of chicken. It'd be perfectly fine. So here it is. It's nice and full. What we want to do, you don't want to lose all the beautiful, crystallized juice that I have here. This is actually what we call a glass. You see a pure reduction. And I want to use it. So what we're going to do, take some of our sauce here. A little bit of it. Put it right inside here. That beautiful brown color. And with a flat spatula, it's very good actually to use wood on metal, you know. So I can scrape. And this is the process of deglazing. And finally, I will add that back to the sauce. In addition to that, it clean up your pat. Give you a point with the dishwasher, you know. It's very important. And now my

sauce is ready. So I'm going to put it right on top of my sweet bread. You would want to do that at the last moment. Remember, because it may get slightly soggy. If you live it too long, you know, on top of the dough. Trying not to make too much of a mess around. And I put more actually around and a little bit to more than it on top. Not more than that. The rest, I can put it directly into a sauce boat. I have quite a lot of sauce here. Put back your cover. You know, you want still to show a little bit of your sweet bread. I have a little piece of time here that you could put inside here there if you want for color. And remember, above that, we're going to have those sliced, fresh truffle. And here is the flavor. Remember that if you cannot afford the truffle, or don't want to use it, it is perfectly fine. Remember that if you don't want to use the sweet bread, you can use chicken. And from a brown sauce, it could also be a white sauce.

This is really a marvelous dish. That tender pastry. It was meltingly subtle sweetbreads. And that meaty, whiny, truffly, wonderful sauce. I'm being rather wildly superlative. But it's such a rare treat to eat something like this. And now, study with Jack Peeper. We all know how to do it ourselves. For cooking with Master Chefs, this is Julia Child Bon Appetit. Detailed recipes from this program are available in a printed transcript. To order a copy, you may call 1 -800 -582 -1800. Or order by mail. Please request the program number on your screen. Funding for this program has been provided by Braun, makers of the Braun Handblender with chopping and whipping attachments. The Braun Handblender enables the home chef to prepare a variety of dishes. By Farberware, creators of Farberware Millenium, never

-stick stainless steel cookware, durable Farberware Millenium, never -stick stainless steel cookware. By the Corporation for Public Broadcasting, and by annual financial support from viewers like you. This is PBS. Please request the program number on your screen. Bon Appetit! This is PBS. Complete recipes for all the dishes in this series and more are available in the book, Cooking with Master Chefs by Julia Child. Call the number on the screen to order your copy. The price is 1795 plus handling.

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