Pierre Franey's Cooking In America; 109; Old New Orleans

This is speir for a day's cooking in America produced in stereo at Maryland Public Television track one left channel track to right channel track three time code. This is episode number 1 0 9. Yes.

For a day's cooking in America is made possible by a grant from Caroline importer's Teaneck New Jersey. The city of New Orleans is a rough day on the Mississippi. One ram moveable feast and when pier comes marching in he's there to eat. Sugar dusted venue from Amman the original coffee stand of New Orleans. Huge po boy sandwich from the Napoleon House and flaming cafe Buelow on a Friday afternoon at the legendary Galatoire's. The city's French Quarter is a goldmine of restaurants rich in tradition and just down the street is Antwon long a New Orleans dining treasure. Here he's on his way to meet Randy. God the great great grandson of the founders of a

restaurant. Good evening. Welcome down quite a bit here. I'm very happy. I'm glad you came. It's going to get busy. And if the wheels are good good to have you know the main dining room this is the original main dining room of the restaurant. My great great grandfather and grandmother started this restaurant for the first 50 years of our 150 year history. This one was the only dining room in the restaurant. You know we have 16 dining rooms here and about twice in each of them has its own character history in the city. And here we are in the rec from one of the famed favorite dining rooms and wines and it celebrates all of the kings of Carnival going back to 1872. Here we have all of the pictures of the kings who served as the king of Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Oh yeah.

The 1840 world has to be one of the most. And twangs was in the house and had already all of the portraits of all of the family going back to the founder and his wife. What we got here. We have the dungeon. We call this the dungeon alley because at one time the service as a dungeon in jail during the Spanish occupy. We have a collection of ashtrays. Else it all began veray Groucho Marx veray that he left to look it at many after some collection here. Oh yes. For it. We go back to the mystery room and during Prohibition time which was a very difficult time to operate a restaurant a day. So this is speakeasy sir. My great grandfather had to. Serve his customers best customers liquor in this room. OK. It's a mystery how he used to get back here.

Now we're about ready to go get back in that kitchen and it's going to get busy any time soon. But I couldn't pass the chance to show you the favorite dining room the large annex which was first constructed as a big grand banquet hall and there room. Now we're going to go back to the kitchen. Michael's got some oysters Rockefeller and Disco boy you know you're very famous right. Yes you should be. Oh I don't know if I can give you a recipe. Rockefeller you know that's a secret. We have something we can do. Why why why. One of the things there's some things we always just hold his nose is a little secret. But I'll tell you what I think know what I do have something for you though from the souffle. This puff of potatoes which you know very well make sure you do it.

We're going to do it together. We're going to we're going to go and do it. I'm going to watch you Michael and I we're going to make these together. He's hot. He's slicing them right now. It has to be perfect leaving right as to be all right. Right. Take it if it's too green. It'll turn dark dark brown could be moist today. Yes moist a little more. You can't have it to dry out. Yeah. And what we're going to do is we're going to put them in a temperature of grease. That's right you know. It's about 400 Twenty 25 degrees. And what happens is important is that the amount of potatoes. That go in to that grease because as soon as you drop the potatoes in. That. Fat the temperature changes drastically. I think these potatoes are about ready to go. We're going to go ahead and with them. OK we're going to take about half of them. OK. I need to get coffee. Get right. Right. Nice and toasty. We're.

Getting a little bit more. You know I don't want it to rot. I'm already getting there. I got it. I'm with you. Nice one. Yeah. Right. From the task of playing the chef girlfriend. But we got here at the ice at Rockefeller. I don't want to give you anything right. I'll tell you what I'll give you one secret. That is two million nine hundred ninety eight thousand nine hundred seventy seven Potter and very. From what I've heard you talk. You don't want to blister your tongue. They are hot. Yes sir. God is good. Thank you very much. Thank you.

I asked them to give me the recipe for Rockefeller. They won't give it to me. So you know what I did. I went over and tried to do it is my own version and I'm going to do. So what we need here of course we need some of this. I've got some hope and right here. I would have put six like this. OK. We've got six to here now. I'm going to show you how to stuff it. We made some stuffing before because the stuffing has to be cooled off before you put it up. So if we put a good spoon of stuffing right over it like this. Where. We want it to be we're you know but not too hot because.

I got to put it out with. But you don't like this. And I put that in the oven for about 15 minutes at 450 degree. And they're going to be there to be hot. But like I say not overcook. Because if they overcook. They're going to dry up. And you're going to lose. I did my version. I don't know exactly what he's doing but I tell you it's a pretty good version of myself that I did. OK. So I put that in the oven. They and 15 minutes now I'm going to show you. How to cook this. When I hear that spinach Did they

clean remove the stems and then very quickly with nothing in it they own moisture. Yes. I always cook by spinach like this you know in the old days they used to put a lot of water over. You don't need it. See. It's happening right in front of you. Yes you may like my spinach and maybe drain the water. Most of its life. And I would bought a garlic cinnamon or whatever you want or whatever. So basically they are cool. All right. That's what the way we want it. Is right here. And we're going to let it cool off. For a while. Because we have to squeeze them. So I have some right here which has been cool off so I'm going to pick them up and that goes whoosh. Squeeze it.

We have to remove all the morsels subpoenas. You've got to squeeze them. Yes. I. Know. I want to show you to put this thing together. I have a food processor right now. You don't have a food processor. You have to shove them by hand. I'm very good. About that. Pick up the celery. I pick up. Sky is green onions. They call. Them shrub parsley. But I think to. The words in there they would tell me what they were doing. But I fear you know by this you'd better garlic good you slice that. This went over garlic. To ensure the future. And we're going to. Find ways to get it. Closer.

Very soon. OK. I have a pair here. With two tablespoons of butter. With that right in here. I. Want. To put some salt and pepper for seasoning and we're going to sort it out. Very very briefly because the longer you're going to cook them the good news they're beautiful. Cut a bit of salt. I've got some pepper here. OK. We're going to sort that out the mix. Well first you know. We could good for about a minute. We don't want to cook it too long. Now I wouldn't be on the side and I'm going to stay in my room right here. So what I need air. Is do. That was good.

But. What is going right in to this. I'm going to put a floor. On the floor by it very well. This is what's called a rule. You don't want to keep it wide. You don't want to broaden it because if you Brodhead it's going to get caught up to the side that I pick up the oyster liqueur. Vine it again is thickening. Because. It's easy to do if you put it this way that way you shake the bag. So really blinded by the Band-Aid the floor and but everything that nobody got the cup every gravy cream. Could. Break. You've got good fat like this the flat surface. Yeah no problem. It pays to buy your equipment. Always

said I'd like to repeat it. And. That. I'm having of Tabasco flavoring. Put. On Russia you odds. So they love it there. And I love it. I said and then. I'm putting Richar. This is Ionians flavor liquor and it's very good Franch. But in New Orleans the collapsing but every car is a very special one. I put one and I'm going to put some letter on. Squeak. That I would think this makes me cry right here. I'm going to bind this. With that right this right in here. OK. Right here. And I'm going to meet that very well. And then I've got. I forgot up her father's and she's great.

OK. Could you say. If you want to but. The very way we bring you a ball boy you see married for about. One minute that we wanted to keep that nice green color. I would guess that to see what it is like. A. Very important test with that great guy. OK. Basically that's what it is. Now this has got to cool off. So you're going to. Like this one here. And you're put out. You pour it over and you put it out there and it's ready. Now let's see what happened here. You want to put it in your mind first. Very hot. Right you. Want al-Assad. And his right ear.

Want to show you. I don't want to. Burn the top. Of. My to any boy here. Got it over. And then. I got so hard not to mention a guy who's rock solid. Rock so it makes it even know that UAD don't move around. OK. We are all like this. Sick. Talk. I love to use my head but I don't squeeze good. Stuff all that. And basically that's what it is. You like my version of the rock thing which they made a big mystery about it.

But it's like you end up going to try. I hope you get it I am sure you will. And the city's lush garden district stately mansions of Oakfield south in the midst of all these Southern memories here comes back to one of his old favorites Commander's Palace. The food here is New Orleans traditional sure but one look tells you they are not living in the past. Jamie I'm glad to meet you. A very good friend and family. Known him for years and I'm very happy to be able to do some work to do my job here. You know I'm going to do all a soul show cry Creole strong warning to the queen this all shows is still alive. These things are still alive and kicking. So one morning here they are taking taking long I'll be there.

The shows are what we call Jumbo's shells an urban shell Crumb's ought to be three years old. Sometimes they shed on two to 23 times a window or break this aerosol can hear him or you put a crane down or put a strip inside. Yes that's right. Break this aerosol destroy in my take off the apron or the tail. And. You're able to put things here and there. Yeah. Yeah. OK. But did I look at this you're going to be great. OK. So. Put some. Yeah this is our real season in Blaine blender we are using on all of our seafood. What do you get in there. It's a lot of dry. Call it a lot of salt pepper. You have a good time and. Base all time but make sure you get the crowd well done.

It would be better if Florida sells for now and then you could need them watch yet you got the eggs and bacon. Raise a little. No. Yeah. I will make sure everything season I put into the bread season the bread crumbs I break down. That's very polite. Just plain French bread for grown any bread crumbs will work. Yeah right. All right. So you get that now. I. Do. All right. Just like the Dawson check up. OK here's one. OK. Well here's I'm going to put them in the fat one and then I'm cooking a little bit with the legs down something like stand up like this. Right now this is what this is for presentation. I understand that you know they got to be really good.

I mean I'm going to turn them down. OK. I put them in for a few minutes hold them down on the ledge and I'll cook for about two and a half minutes. What is the price that you can do it. And what they find just far. You can use them to do them at home all the time. That's right. You can get it for about two and a half minutes or 375 degrees. So basically to the Golden Crest ready to go. OK now we've got something else to do. We have a little bit of a crawfish right. Oh OK. What did you do. What you're looking at right there. OK. First you want to have some cook very soon. We have some hot peppers. Don't sweat it out the pan to create tomatoes celery on him a little bit of time on it. And you know we have some fresh crawfish tails. OK I've got work to do right there. That's just plain steamed rind sweaters. OK. We want to stir that around a little bit.

OK. You've done this before. All right I tried. All right. Some All our homemade wishes she was also we make here. OK. You're right you're good. You know as you said maybe two or three tablespoons. Oh look at that. Homemade. Yeah we make it here three months. Good stuff. I might have a little bit of Tabasco Basco of any drugs. Depends on where you're from what I've got here. We put four five in New York you might want to work for it. By the way I tried your way back a little bit of our on scene first season and she said that we are safer. That's right. That's right. And mix it all up here. These crabs looking great. Oh boy you are sort of surprised. Why. Yeah. Oh looks good. Good source of ice cream also. Just heard

about I like put the songs on the bottom of the cracks the nice and crunchy. Yeah right. That sums. Always got to get to it. You know. I like him. I. Know you could do a lot of friends right there on the song. You got it right. Right. Great Kate. I've got to try. You. Get very very nice. You know I understand why you come into my life line right now. I'm going to show you another very good recipe for New Orleans. It's a no Monday. This is very popular. And it's a

beautiful fish. Which is right here. This one is lost but it's beautiful. You see that I didn't let the cut of the skin but it's going to be boneless skinless. So I have to feel right here for the smaller fish and I'm going to put some salt and pepper. Right here a little bit. On either side. OK I feel better. You know the next thing I'm going to do. I'm going to make. A good combination of make. More salt and pepper. Very very true. Yes. And good stuff for New Orleans and Louisiana Tabasco. You could be as I showed you on you're going to use it if you don't like it because that fish going to be very good. She's the way it is then with the Fusion here. What do you put on boats like this. When I remove the excess.

Of the meat because we don't want too much we want a very large and a good day and flower. OK. Prepare wine. I would do the other one. On both side. Very. Very flawed. We don't want too much. OK. Now I have a pen right here. I'm going to put that right there right in here. OK. And when it comes down both sides it goes right in here. And meanwhile I got to do fish cooking on the other side. OK. Once in a while you have to bear the fish here with some little fuck you know this is all you did with various things that were going to be tender and moist. See see what's happening here.

See here are odd because. What happens is this one is got to be cooking more on the outside. You'll never know. Whether. They're going to be ready when I'm with you. I'm going to serve one for sure. OK. What are we going to do it and would somebody. See what happened here. But you know you move on. That's one way to get this done. I want to get to you that I don't like that. With you Daryn. Well. I'm going to do what for sure. So I'm going to put one foot of water. I've got to use the crop portion so I'm going to put

some out here. Is. We want to run the ship's cook here. I want to burn that. OK. Now this. Is. What I do here. One portion of it here. This one. Anyone but they too are on. The. Very short on. That. But the admin cannot be overcooked or the Bronx. So we just put a potato up potatoes here and run. When they get like the brawn. You squeeze the lemon tree.

What a thing. Shake it. All right all right. The butter is bubbling. That's what you give that for makes a big difference. But it is bubbling. You know 11 does that and sometimes does that. And you are a very nice flavor. And it is my Pop I know. Very simple. You could do any kind of fish that way. Yeah I'll be there. Great. All the restaurant in New Orleans. Keep on looking at America. The recipes from today's show from the entire series are contained in the companion cookbook pier for cooking in America published by Alfred can offer to order a call 1 800 4:41 3000. The 236 page volume contains over 150. Easy to follow recipes for the home chef. The price is twenty five dollars

plus shipping and handling. Please add your credit card ready when you call. Be here for days. Cooking in America was made possible by a grant from Kerala on importer's Teaneck New Jersey. It's