Hit the Dirt; Fruit Trees by Size

Last week I discussed factors to be considered in choosing among the many varieties of fruit trees offered yet with many of the bigger and some of the smaller nurseries deciding on which variety is not enough. You must also decide on whether you want it in a miniature dwarf or semi dwarf or standard sized tree. Only some of the varieties are available in semi dwarf and Wharf sizes and even fewer in miniature. So this might make the decision process easier. If you are limited for space but want a maximum of diversity then your choices are limited to those available in the smaller sizes. On the other hand if you have your heart set on getting a pumpkin sweet apple and is only offered as a standard tree and that is what you get. Otherwise you have choices. First let's look at just what is meant by the terminology. All of the categories refer to the sizes of the trees when they reach maturity. The differences are caused by the different root stocks that the named varieties you order are grafted onto. Thus when you get your young tree you will really be getting two varieties fused via grafting the top determines the type of fruit

and the bottom part or root stock controls the size of the tree at maturity. It does so by producing hormones which signals that branch is going to slow down vertical vegetative growth. The standards are the full size trees. Although this varies greatly with the different kinds of fruit. A standard apple or pear can reach a height of 40 feet whereas apricots and plums only tend to reach 30 feet. Cherries 35 feet and nectarines and peaches only 25 feet. Trees range from 10 to 50 percent smaller than their standard equivalents of dwarf trees grow only 6 to 12 feet high and the miniature trees usually stay under 6 feet tall. Some of the miniatures the dwarfing mechanism is in the entire tree not due to a root stock. As to which size is better is a somewhat controversial issue which for the most part I believe depends on the preferences of the grower and the particular site. Standard trees can lend a sense of

permanence to a landscape that smaller trees cannot provide standard trees usually live to be quite a bit older than their smaller counterparts. A single planting can produce not only for you but for your children grandchildren or maybe even great grandchildren as well. They can be nice shade trees and great climbing trees but they take up more room. They also produce a lot more fruit tree perhaps too much of one kind at one time for a small family. Furthermore harvesting fruit inspecting for signs of disease and insects and pruning can be more difficult. The big tree. The smaller the tree the less fruit yield per tree but the greater the annual yield per given area since the trees can be planted more densely. Yet the trees are shorter lived hence requiring repeated plantings to keep up production. As long as the standards of the dwarfs are easier to harvest and maintain but are not as sturdy as the more firmly rooted standards. The doors do produce full sized fruit and you can plant more different kinds in a given area. So if you want to sample a large number of the varieties

would be the way to go. The miniature varieties can even be grown in containers for those with very limited space. Yet of course it doesn't have to be completely either one or the other. Some find it is best to get some dwarf in some standard. The dwarf trees begin to bear earlier so you don't have to wait as long for the first fruits. And they can be planted between the standard thus the doors will be over the hill and can be removed as the longer lives standards are just reaching their full size. In this way you can get some of the benefits of each size. Whatever size category you decide on. Keep in mind that soil type and tree variety can affect size as well. Trees grown in rich sandy loam can grow twice as fast and get twice as big as the same variety planted in poorly drained heavy clay soil. And there is a variety of IDs and apples for example Prima Cortland and Newtown Pippin will often grow to be 10 percent smaller than normal standard apple trees. I had a Red John a gold and red Harrison will be

20 percent smaller. Red Chief and Max burger will be 25 percent smaller. Other varieties may grow to be larger than normal such as Empire northern and Rhode Island greeting. Well I hope this walk through the orchard planning process these past few weeks has been helpful to those of you who are thinking of planting some fruit trees in future shows. I'll discuss tree planting tips and how to properly care for the trees once they are growing and on their way to yielding the sweetest piece of heaven you ever did taste. So stay tuned to hit the dirt. If you have any questions regarding small orchard planning you can write to me. Keith go far. Are you the hen house Blue Hill Falls Maine 0 4 6 1 5. See you next week on the radio.