World tonight

Well as you've just heard the Everest expedition seems to be off exhausted cold hungry short of oxygen. Dawn Williams and Dougal Huston are at last climbing down from the start the expedition seem to be under a kiss plagued by bad weather disagreements illness and death. Many people criticised it from the start as a publicist and backed by the BBC with exclusive television rights and including 13 nations. One of the joint leaders of the expedition Swiss American Norman Durham foot flew into London this afternoon not knowing the climate been abandoned. John Humphrys announced him what he thought of the criticism that with so many nationalities involved it should never have set out in the first place. I feel that the quarrel could have happened had we been 32 Englishmen. I 32 Australians and 32 Americans. There were four people on the team. Drunkenness and when the west ridge effort

collapsed because of low morale after the death of major They wanted to switch to the south coast. I argued against it because that was not the purpose of the expedition to South Korea has now been done successfully by five expeditions and a total of 23 climbers have reached the top by way of that route. And Jamie Roberts and I had decided from the beginning this is going to be one expedition which is not going to go up by where the South Col. We wanted to do the Southwest face and the west ridge. Well they since we believe in democracy I suggested that we vote on it and the majority voted in favor of the child car route. So I argued against it but to no avail. And I find they promised that I would support such a program. They put up one camp at camp three at the foot of the Lhotse face and later on in Europe they said well all the difficulties were behind us a summit was within reach. That is utter nonsense because from there even under good conditions it would normally take about four weeks to put a team on the scene.

But the route did break out was this not basically a matter of national pride one country against one I would not one country against the other. They just wanted to reach the summit personally at all costs on any route. They were not interested in doing new routes. They just wanted to reach the summit by the easiest route. And I argued with him that was not the point of the expedition. I had labored very hard for two and a half years without salary and income. I worked I organized the expedition I raised the money for it the hard way from thousands of different sponsors and then all of a sudden I discovered that these people were not really interested in the main goal of the expedition but wanted to reach the summit personally. Whether it was for personal glorification or for a national purpose. Of course Carla wanted to be the first Italian Pierre wanted to be the first Frenchman type event so she wanted to be the first woman on top. How angry was she when she discovered she would be. Well she had been wonderful everybody liked her she'd been a perfect

companion up to that point. But then I remember when I got down to base camp from a dance place she stood on a little hill and she kissed me in French in no uncertain terms and she threw rather hard snowballs at me which did not hit me. And later on she threw rocks at my tent. So that's how it affected. Who do now think of this expedition that you've had time to think about it as a total disaster. You really didn't achieve anything you set out to achieve. No I wouldn't say that at all. In the first place as an experiment in international cooperation understanding I think for the most part it was successful. The nations work very well together. The fact that four people left us has nothing to do with the international aspect. I think it could have happened had we had 32 Englishmen if the poor Englishman felt they were prevented from reaching the summit if they wanted to go by this article it could have happened just the same. But you say it wasn't a total disaster what relieves it from being there.

Well I believe the very fact that our men got up to twenty seven thousand two hundred feet on the most difficult road ever attempted Everest that they got twelve hundred feet higher than our Japanese friends did last year after having made two previous reconnaissance expeditions of the face. I believe that in itself is a success. Would you try again to do what you failed this time to do. Right now I feel that this was definitely my last expedition. That was John Humphries talking to Norman Norman during Ford. An eccentric and jovial friend of mine has long wanted to write a stage musical about the London Stock Exchange. It might be called contango. You can imagine a chorus line of tap dancing brokers pinning their bowler hats on the end of a tightly rolled umbrellas and singing numbers like dividends strip. Let's put our guilts together or shorts were down again today. But there's a snag

these days. Every musical needs full frontal femininity but in this one there won't be any girls today by twelve hundred eighty seven votes to nine hundred fifty five. The stock exchange again hammered women's lib and vetoed women so that uncommon market of stocks and shares remains London's lost all male script. In this week's Friday feature Aubrey Wilson takes a closer look at voter against women's admission was Richard Brown a partner in stockbrokers and Sean Hayes and sons. I asked him why I voted against women being elected as members of the stock exchange because I feel that I did not want to have them running around on the Stock Exchange and interfering with something which has been going on for a great deal of time and understanding which we men happen mongst each other. If we have women on the trading floor of the stock exchange a great deal of the atmosphere

will be set near ruined by that arrival. I think we have to be very very careful in what we have to say. Certainly our language would have to be trimmed down a great deal. I wondered if he was afraid of women. I'm not afraid of women who told their I'm very fond of women but I don't want women in the stock exchange. Are you afraid of their ability are you afraid they may pinch some of your business. No the trouble with women is I don't honestly think that they are serious minded enough when it comes to being confronted with male institutional managers. They're probably fall down and cry and say No I don't think I can go ahead and actually sell the situation which is so essential if we where they want to get through and make a deal with a fund manager. A woman will probably say Oh I agree with you in that case and forget about it. No I think in actual fact they're not aggressive as men and will have not really got the mentality to be set aggressive as men. Why do you need to be so aggressive. Was this supposed to be a battlefield.

Not necessarily a battlefield but if you got to sell something. I want one may pop a subset of natural fact you'll know perfectly well that a situation wants to sell. It's got to B'Tselem a lot of people don't believe in fact that it is a right situation. But I also wondered how the women who have fought for a change in the stock exchange practices reacted to this attitude. And so I asked Miss Muriel Bailey investment advisor to stock broker Sternberg flour. Well I'm already inclined to think that they don't except the fact that women can hold their own in business which they have proved on more than one occasion in different industries in different businesses and professions. And I feel very sorry that they happen to recognise that now. Did Mrs Bailey think that men brokers and jobbers having to tone their language down and generally adopt some decorum. One is in fact a real factor in the adverse vote. I think though things have changed so radically in the stock exchange today. In the old days yes and today no one is far too busy

getting from one spot to another and checking your prizes keeping in touch with the old boxes so I don't think they have time for such a nonsense. Alright then do you think they fear competition from you. Possibly And yet I cannot quite understand the reason because after all the average woman is far more interested in investing this team on a behalf of clients not on the floor of the House and the U.S. But what I'm really saying is do you think that they are afraid that if you do go on the floor of the house and you do do that being women you have intuition if you like and therefore could pinch some of their business. No I don't because I think that if you're going on the floor of the house you have to be trained in that specific spare if you like to put it that way. And no I think that's a ridiculous thing. The members vote of course is only an indication to the Stock Exchange Council of how the

members are thinking. And it is the council who make the final decision. So I asked a council member Nicholas Goodison how he reacted to the vote. So personally I'm disappointed because I'll make a secret of it I voted for the admission of women. I can't myself see any real argument why we should exclude them as a council member. I'm disappointed equilibrium the level of the Po. It was in a 65 and a half percent of the whole membership that voted the council meets next week and I imagine that meeting next week we will discuss the outcome of this vote and come to a final decision on the question. So in point of fact you can overrule the voters but you can say women will be admitted as the council the council is elected by the membership to take decisions of the sort. But the whole argument really revolves around whether women are admitted to the floor. I think I'm right in saying they can be admitted to the stock exchange

but they have to serve three months on the floor before they can be admitted as members. And this is the contentious fact that been on the floor. Yes and it goes further than that it's not just the three month period on the floor of the stock exchange which each new member has to serve in order to qualify. But you've hit the nail on the head. The bone of contention is this admission of women to the floor of the house where I think the feeling runs very high. But if the vote had gone the other way would Miss Bailey have applied to join as a member of the London Stock Exchange. Oh yes what would be the advantage in your status because after all in every profession there's the top. And to achieve it in this profession you must become a member and in time you become a partner. Possibly you might be elected council Wilson looking at securities and maybe some masculine insecurity on the Stock Exchange. Meanwhile back at the ranch or rather back

at the Lyndon B Johnson Library a vast 18 and a half million dollar marble vault overlooking the University of Texas it's being dedicated tomorrow in the presence of 3000 people including Billy Graham. This is Richard Nixon and Gregory Peck. In it are such national treasures as LBJ his daughter's wedding a gallery of LBJ photos and the hat that Carol Channing wore in a special White House performance of Hello Dolly from Washington. Hello John. Lyndon Johnson and all the world knows he's a big man a big man from a big state. And his library is big too. So it's somewhat smaller than the Great Pyramid of Giza. This hasn't stopped it being dubbed fairly quickly the great pyramid of Often indeed the Washington Post has a genial cartoon showing Lyndon as a pharaoh sitting on a base of LBJ Presidential files while guidebooks and so on to the

biggest of them all in keeping the rest of America obviously I think with all the classic traditions of the lone star state where everything is known to be bigger and better than anywhere else in the world. The same goes for tomorrow's ceremony. Or perhaps right would be a better word. The 3000 famous guests from whom our old enemy is like say Senator Fulbright have been pointedly excluded will hear an invocation by the Reverend Billy Graham. Watch the dedication by President Nixon and then enjoy a great Texas barbecue on the field in the Memorial Stadium. Well overshadowed by the monumental nine story cube without Windows which is the library building itself. This contains 31 million documents half a million photographs half a million feet of movie film 600 taked individuals and forty four thousand two hundred red chrome leather

boxes each embossed with a gold presidential seal. All this plus a helicopter landing pad on the roof. At one stage those gold seals on the backroom boxes began to peel off and the library stopper 33 people had to stick them all on again. One of the most popular attractions so to speak in the library is on the top floor. This is a 7 8 scale replica of the presidential Oval Office here in the White House in Washington. One of the library official says Mr. Johnson will occasionally use this room as an office. Perhaps who knows. In nostalgic mood for those days of power past. Mr. Johnson has said for many years before becoming president to have carefully kept his personal papers having been prodded to do so as long ago as 1958 by his mother shortly before she died. The result is that his collection is indeed the most comprehensive presidential collection of all time the

hairiest Truman Library for instance contains a mere nine point three million documents. And Herbert Hoover was a diminutive 4.6 million. Even the Franklin D Roosevelt Library with all its World War Memories has it. Twenty two million some 11 million papers fewer than Lyndon. Well of course all these staggering statistics tend to hide the serious purpose of the library. Well you know the scholars and historians will carry away happily among the archives trying to establish the truth of whatever happened at some time or another or to demolish what somebody has already said happened at one time or another. And now for the closing news headlines. In a joint communique after the Paris summit the prime minister and president to have expressed confidence that the main problems over Britain's entry into the common market will be settled at the next round of negotiations. Mr. Heath who has not left Paris for home told a news

conference tonight that the discussions have shown very close agreement on the future of Europe and its institutions. President Pompidou has said that although it would be unreasonable to think that there will not be agreement there will be long moments of negotiation. Still to come. And a quick look at the other headlines. In Frankfurt the dollar has again weakened on the foreign exchange market. President Nixon has said that America and Russia are aiming to have an Arms Limitation agreement in force by the end of the year. Police in Belfast have released all but seven of the 33 people held after a raid on a pub this afternoon. Chelsea have won the European Cup Winners Cup beating Rael Madrid 2 1 in the replay in Athens. And that brings us to the end of the program. The World Tonight Richard Maine and Douglas Stuart reporting in London and Paris. Clive Jacobs will be with you on Monday night at 10:00.