Old Houseworks; 225

Oh. Well so much for the barbecue. You know in fixing up an old house some things just have to take precedence sometimes relaxation has to wait. I was set to go with this barbecue when I reached into a closet for my chef's apron and the musty smell was just overpowering so to get rid of the odor. I'm going to try something I read in the

newspaper. This article said to fill an old coffee can. With charcoal briquettes. And they will absorb the musty nose. Then you cover it with a lid and ventilate. That is a ventilated lid. I'll just put this in the closet and hopefully the Mustin this will disappear. We've got a great show ahead of us so don't you disappear. I'll be discussing security systems for the old house what to look for and how to choose one. Plus we'll pick up where we left off last time with creating a plaster Cornus. Right now there are two letters one from Bonnie Evans and Ethel Mississippi and one from LH Brown in Midland Michigan both viewers are curious about Blazing a sash. What is the difference between glazing compound and putty and it's a good question. I suppose the most obvious difference between the two is life expectancy. Glazing

compound. The newer substance remains pliable longer whereas years down the pike with party this could be what you are in for. Pretty tough. There is a chemical difference between glazing compound and body that accounts for all of this. But part of the reason this body is dried out has to do with improper preparation. And that brings up another difference between the two products. Each requires a different preparation lazing compound is a synthetic and vinyl based substance. It requires the surface to be primed with an oil based primer or paint party. On the other hand is oil based so linseed oil is the recommended primer. Now after the window is set no matter which product is used painting the sash is necessary. It's what seals the glazing from the elements so it will last. The distinction here is that with glazing compound you only have to wait a few days before painting. But with the oil based party the inherent oil must first

soak into the wood otherwise the paint wouldn't hear and that means waiting all a week or more. So what we have putty is the older substance which needs careful preparation follow up glazing compound also needs before and after work. But the steps aren't as critical. Undoubtedly due to these factors plus its durability glazing compound is the more popular item in fact some hardware stores don't even stock putty anymore and that is something else to consider. Now let's get back to something we began last time. Nancy Martin's in Florida wanted to learn the art of making a plaster corners. And last time we watched Robert G an ETI a professional in the art of decorative plaster construct this is a mold for running a plaster Cornus. Now this mold will run along the edge of the bench slicing through the plaster as it goes thereby creating the corners for those of you who missed our last demonstration I thought I'd review how this mold is put together and one of the keys to success in running the corniest is to have this mold made correctly and making a mold

is the first step in running a plaster Cornus. The most important part is this metal piece here. It is called The Night. It is cut in the shape of what you might call a reverse profile of the corners you're making. But the knife needs support and that is this piece back here it is called the horse the knife is nailed to the horse noticed that the horse is recessed about a quarter of an inch back and that is on an angle back from the knife age. That's all done to prevent plaster from building up back here. The rest of the mold known as the slipper or jig keeps the night force combination at right angles to the bench. This diagonal brace and this witch shaped piece here both do just that. Now notice how the back of the slipper extends down below the rest of the mold that creates a guide for running across the bench. How to construct a bench. Well that is the other thing we learned last time it doesn't have to be anything spectacular just two long pieces of plywood or one by one stock formed into an L shape.

Actually one by stock could be one by ten one by 12 whatever and it is made into a bell shape. The important thing is that the edge of a mold be in constant contact with the back of the bench here and that completes all of your construction work. Now you're ready to start making that corner. So let's rejoin Robert G and Addie as we move on to Step Two preparing the badge. Going to take a little piece a stick like this which is about the length of the of the section that we're going to run. Now what's the purpose of that. I get the purpose of that is to lighten up the back of the of the run. So instead of having plaster in here you're taking some out. Right. So be like this. I see. OK now we're going to take some wet newspapers. And we're going to put them over top of this. That will cover up this board.

Doesn't matter how sick they are. Just enough to cover it. So we want to run this down and check to make sure we're not going to. Rip up the paper. All right. Then we have to lubricate everything with what. Well we're using here a mixture of still remain which is what they used to make candles with and it's thinned them with kerosene. All right. So we're going to lubricate the whole works here. Now that's anywhere the plaster will touch have any where the plaster will touch you're going to lubricate everything you know. So in this case we're just going to put it over everything through the boards on the bench

have to be treated with anything before use them. Yeah would be a good idea to seal them up in this case I've used a couple of coats of shellacked otherwise the plaster is going to stick to that. We want to make sure we put it on this too. Back edge so that we can get the plaster off here. And also we want to put a good healthy amount right along here this is going to give us a nice slick edge to write on. Now that you've pleaded hearing that they're. Still missing one very important ingredient of plastic. So let's see what Robert had to offer on step three. Mixing the plaster. What kind of plaster is it. Well we're using molding plaster.

Where can you find it. You get this from a building supply house that would that would sell you know dry wall and and that kind of stuff. And your advice to make it more than you think you know always make more than you need because you can throw it away but if you have to go back and make some more you're in such a critical time. And the other plaster may not be the right consistency molding plaster molding plaster you. You're putting it in here how do you know when to stop. Well that's a good question but I don't know how to tell you that except for when it's you know it doesn't float on the top or a little bit still floats on the top anymore. You can. That's about it. Yeah you really have to experiment with it I guess you really do. To finally get the right consistency user Tartars in here at all I would recommend anybody to use retarder because if you

use a little bit too much your plaster may never set. And they also have an accelerator which might make it set up too fast that it is fast anyhow isn't it. Is it pretty fast. So we're starting to get you see there now you know it's holding on the surface a little pyramid on it. OK. I'm. Going to stir this up a little bit and then we're going to divide it into three bowls.

The some in this one and some in each of these. And why do you do that. Well because we're going to have three different plasters as we run it over. We'll you'll see how that works out if. We want to have a little bit that's left that's not going to set up quite a stance. But the more you stir it or the more you agitate the plaster the faster it sets. Is that giving you any resistance now when you when you stir that you know really I think it's about the consistency of cream. You know with the cream. We want to get it to. A little thicker than this before we start to put it on the on the attempt on the run. Now I notice there are some air bubbles in there. Will they disappear.

Yeah they'll disappear there. I their problem if they you know are really nothing to worry about right at this time. Now how did you divide that just. Well just by I just a little bit in that one a little bit in that one right. You set that down for me over there. Then I can take a little bit of burlap which could be the size of a burlap bag or something like that which we're going to use to reinforce the back of the care of the back of the run. OK OK so we dipped this in the plaster like that. You can get your hands dirty this is not going to say I'm glad we're here in the shop not the living room. OK don't go against the newspaper right.

And that becomes part of it right now become part of the run and helps hold it together. Right. Now I want to fall this over so that it's all under the template. At this point it's just a matter of waiting called Ad plastered to set up. And all it took Roberts batch about seven minutes with some careful watching and occasional stirring of the first pail. But once that plaster reaches the right consistency you've got to move immediately on to Step Four running the mold. And now let's just watch for a while it's mesmerizing to see that corners take shape.

Thank. You. Thank you.

Thank you thank you. Thank you. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. Thank thank. This is where Robert turned to that second ball of plaster. You can even see a slight difference in

consistency and when that was gone he turned to the third. Notice that the mold is pushed not pulled through the plaster. It's vitally important to always move the mold in the same direction. Admittedly Robert makes things look easy but then again he is a professional. One bit of expertise that only comes with practice is the speed of your work. You must work fast so that your plaster doesn't set up but only experience will let you know how fast. Before the final run there are several things you should do. First you need to clean off

to assure a good clean drive. You might also want to sprinkle the plaster with water in the plaster was already beginning to set up and water keeps the surface pliable. And there it is the finished corner. Now the only problem is bring it from the bench your fifth and final step. Robert how do I know when it's cured enough to remove. OK well it'll start to get warm feel it. Yeah okay. So now it's starting to set up so now we want to take it off of this bench. Yeah we're going to do it we're going to score a line.

Low top. And simply just lift it away to home. And we'll cut a square edge on it. So we'll slip it out here to the end. And that's it. All you have to do now is make some more lengths of molding and then you can add some elegance to your old house by installing a plaster corner. Now I hope we've clarified this whole process but if not if something isn't clear just let me know. My address is the old house words Owings Mills Maryland 2 1 1 1 7. I'll try to bring back into focus the details necessary to get the job done right. Flexing up an old house can at times seem overwhelming so if you have any questions at all pertaining to the old house let me work on the answer that way your job won't seem so tough. That's the old house works. Owings Mills Maryland

2 1 1 1 7. And now let's journey to the seaside resort of Cape May New Jersey and visit a house where three men have pooled their restorative talents. This is no small seaside cottage. It's known as the Wilbraham estate and one of the first things you want to do is drink it all in. The estate was purchased in 1071 by Dean from mine Richard Flynn and Charles McDonough for the preceding 71 years. The house had remained in the Wilbraham family. Curiously children were never allowed in the Wilbraham House during those 71 years. As a result much of the original fabric of the house remained including this gaslight and piece of gingerbread currently gracing the dining room. That's not to say though that the three new owners didn't have a lot to do. All the walls had to be stripped and redone.

Picture moldings were added and new drapes were made in period fashion by current co-owner Charles MacDonald. In the up stairs rooms the men's knack for Victorian reproduction is evidenced once again. This bedroom said once belonged to a Russian countess. And the story of its journey from Russia to Cape May is locked within its brain. A long sea voyage diplomats war perhaps even an illicit rendezvous. These are stories that must be left to the imagination. The Wilbraham a state where the past lives on thanks to the restoration work of its three gentlemen on it. Now let's step out of the glories of the past and into the harsh realities of the present. Phyllis Kramer of Winchester Virginia writes With the ever increasing number of burglaries I'm now giving serious consideration to an alarm system. Can you provide some information on how burglar alarms work and particular types I might want to look out for. Well fellas burglar alarms are in the realm of their own

so to lead us through the maze of magnetic devices and motion detectors I'd ask Skip Qibla of the Baltimore County Police to join us skip. Thanks so much for coming by. Thank you. We've got to get some answers from you and I know you have them. Let's just create for the moment an imaginary situation perhaps and let's say I want to prevent someone from breaking into my house. In your words what is the first area you need to protect. First area that you want to protect and be the perimeter of your home. Basically that's the doors and windows the main points of entrance and exit. Now we're talking obviously the first floor we talk more than that. You start out with the first floor but you also don't want to overlook things like second story windows garage doors basement doors. Sure a basement window wouldn't you know. Now it seems like there are so many different types of alarms What are a few of the choices I have for protecting the windows in the doors let's talk about that perimeter. The main kind I think people go for in Windows and Doors are the magnetic switches in the magnetic foil tape that you see on a lot of the windows. That's usually the first thing that people think about when they

talk about alarm systems those magnetic parts. All right let's talk about the effectiveness of a magnetic device how do you feel about those. We don't feel that they're necessarily effective simply because we do have a an overall rate of 97 percent faulty alarm rate. This is a problem primarily because of weather conditions and any magnetic based alarm system is going to be a problem because of weather and atmospheric conditions. OK. Now suppose the burglar has managed to break through the perimeter protection into the house is there any kind of alarm system designed to detect intruders once they are inside. There are several The most common kind would be the motion detector or the ultrasonic alarm system which operates on a theory of sound waves at a certain frequency. So in effect do you feel you could recommend the ultrasonic. I would recommend it yes I think it's a good alarm system. Now they have to be pros and cons to motion detectors like this ultrasonic type. Tell us about that. The main the main thing that I like about an ultrasonic motion detector alarm system is that it has to be some kind of motion that sets it off it will not necessarily activate because of the weather conditions that we were

talking about. That's the main thing I like on. Along the same lines there are problems because of the things that will set off such as animals pets sleep walkers air conditioning vents things like that. And if those happen repeatedly they're the believability factor starts to go away a little bit right. Definitely. Yeah. There goes the babysitter again right. OK. Now since motion detectors have these kind of inherent problems. Is there an alarm system that we could use to protect maybe one single item let's say we have a valuable painting or a sculpture or something. Yes you do have what is commonly referred to as point or trap protection. This is what people use to protect valuable paintings valuable gun collections valuable jewelry collections coin collections if they have a security closet in their home or they just want to protect one point in the home and nothing else in the house itself. Now what kind of a system we use at a point you're really only limited by imagination you can use the smaller model of a motion detector if you really like that type of alarm system you can go with the magnetic

switches on the gun cabinet doors and security closet doors if you have a display cabinet with Windows and you can use magnetic tape on it. Just about any kind of sensor can be used on that. So if there are so many different kinds of systems we've touched on a couple but I've heard about photo electric infrared and other rather sophisticated types of alarms. Are they really appropriate for use in my kind of house without actually seeing the house it's hard to say I wouldn't recommend photoelectric or infrared simply because of the cost you have to be careful that you're not putting more into an alarm system than what you protecting. Now if once we have this installed should the alarm sound inside the house outside of the house or to another location altogether. Again it's going to depend on where you live if you live way out in the country you definitely want somebody monitoring that alarm system if you're going to spend that kind of money for protection you want somebody paying attention to it and they'll notify the police. Hopefully when the alarm system activates if you live in a urban or suburban area then we recommend that you go with the local alarm which is going to be a louder

siren right outside it's going to wake your neighbors up and let them call the police. So going to put the bell on the side where you have the nearest neighbor. You are the one whose home unfortunately you want to wake somebody up at 3:00 in the morning. Yes that's right. But I don't have any false alarms too often and you lose your neighbors get any alarms or completely burglar proof you know nothing designed at this point. Nothing that I've seen most of them can be defeated in choosing a burglar alarm system to meet my needs Where can I go for help. I would recommend first that you contact local police department most trained experts in the field they can come out to your home and give you an onsite security inspection recommend the type of alarm system they need. Second it's not a bad idea even after that to go out and do a little comparison shopping at the retail level yourself. And you could go even as far as have a alarm company representative come in and give you a free estimate and tell you what he thinks you need. And he would just go over the whole place and he would go over the whole place of salesman. Yes. So you want to be a little bit careful there but he can give you some good advice and tell you what's available. OK Skip thank you very much.

Thank you. And with that it's time to ring down the curtain once again. Next time we'll talk about basic electricity from volts and Watts to load service and circuit breakers. We'll also get into the nuts and bolts of nailing into concrete. It should be a good you'll see them.