Conquest of Southwest Kansas

I believe the pioneers of this region owe it to themselves and to future generations to leave an imperishable record of how they found this country in the beginning and how it was transformed by their hands into it's present day comforts and prosperity. Why people first came here and how? What ideas they brought with them and what sort of people they were. Just what they did here. How they first fared in the land and how they have gotten on since then makes an important and fascinating study of local history. The earliest history of Kansas is inseparably linked with the buffalo, for Kansas was a favorite grazing land roamed by mighty herds. The Indians who lived in this region were dependent on the buffalo. The meat was their food, the hides were used for clothing, bedding, dishes, teepees, and for nearly every other purpose. The buffalo also played an indispensable part in pioneer history.

All the old timers in western Kansas are familiar with the solution of the fuel problem, which was solved by gathering up the buffalo chips. It was a nice day in November 1878, and two men were on a roof shingeling a house, when one of them paused to glance over the prairie. This was an uncontrolled habit of the isolated bands of pioneers. To the northeast the shingler noticed a number of objects which were moving up and down on the grassy slopes. He called attention to his discovery, and all the men of the town climbed up on the building to get a view. At his first glance, W.D. Fulton shouted "Buffalo!". The herd was feeding slowly and was headed toward the river. The animals advanced majestically from the higher prairie down into the valley, seemingly unaware that man was laying the foundation of a city on one of their favorite feeding grounds. On came the shaggy monsters, numbering 28. It was a grand

sight and one never to be witnessed again in Finney County. Gone are all the buffalo that once ranged in western Kansas. But their memory will always be a fixed feature in the early romance of southwest Kansas. So far as is known, Lieutenant Zebulon M. Pike was the first explorer to visit this part of Kansas. In eighteen 1806, he followed the course of the Arkansas River through this region that was included on early maps known as the Great American Desert. Pike recorded in his journal concerning this region. "I believe there are elk, deer, and buffalo sufficient on the banks of the Arkansas River to feed all the savages in the United States Territory one century. But the region could not support white men in large numbers, even along the rivers." There was no attempt made to settle or develop the resources of this part of the Great American Desert until after the close of the Civil War, and even then there were no settlers in this region until after the

building of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad in 1872. For several years after western Kansas was being opened for settlement, the counties in this region remained unorganized and had no population except for cattlemen. The supremacy of the cattlemen was of short duration. The railroad company, which had been the prime means of beginning the cattle industry, was was also the chief inducement for people to come in and homestead the land. To the landless, it seemed a great boon to have the opportunity to settle upon government land and acquire fee simple title to a quarter section of land for a mere living upon it. Even many who had farms or places of business in the east, decided they could better their conditions by disposing of their property and settling upon cheap, yet fertile land in the West. In 1878 there was a sprinkling of homesteaders scattered over the prairies, and the

next year, 1879, many more filed on claims. It has been said of that first year that it was "will the wist" which lured hundreds of homesteaders into this region, only to have their hopes blasted by drought during the next succeeding years. The chief industry among the homesteaders was picking up buffalo and cattle bones, of which there appeared to be an inexhaustible supply all over the prairies, and hundreds of loads were brought in to points along the railroad to be shipped, For which the settlers received five or six dollars a ton. Sally Crow recalls how her husband then (unitellligble) Buckles would go far out on the prairie to gather bones. There were no roads or trails to follow and in order to find their was back to Garden City, they would tie a log under the wagon low enough to drag on the ground to make a mark so they could follow it home. Another source of income which was obtained in a hard but thrilling way, was the catching of wild horses which were shipped east.

Those pioneer men of Kansas who came and remained in spite of droughts and discouragement, really enjoyed that life as they first found it here. But it was hard was hard on the women, the majority of whom had been reared in homes of comfort and culture in the East. They tried to be optimistic and worked out their part nobly, but they suffered loneliness and privations. Mrs. Ben Stotts came with her husband to Garden City in 1881 and has since learned to love the country but she almost shrinks from any mention of those first years. She says, "The awful monotony was killing. There was nothing to do, nothing to see, and nowhere to go. And should we have attempted to go anywhere, we would only have become lost. Where there are only end trails leading to the claims of a few settlers. So we women crept about from house to house. There was no use to hurrying. We had all the time there was. Our conversation each day was a repetition of that of the day before and

always about how terrible it was, living in such a desert. Where the wind and the sun had full sweep." The early settlers were left entirely on their own resources for amusement. The literary was perhaps the first organization and the programs consisted entirely upon talent. But they were very interesting and heartily enjoyed. Picnic and dances were common and holidays observed. There was never any very serious feud between the cattle rangers and the homesteaders in western Kansas. Perhaps the cowboys tried to discourage settlement on the ranges, but they were not desperate about it. And they were always very respectful toward the pioneer women. A Mrs. Thomas who lived on the range remarked of the cowboys, "Many a time I served meals to cowboys. Did they sit back and let me do all the work? No, they rolled up their sleeves, washed, and then went to work like good fellows." After the long drought period ending in 1882, climatic

conditions improved so that immense crops favored the farmers all during 1883, '84, and '85. The word that western Kansas would produce a big yield of grain and vegetables traveled swiftly. Homesteaders came by thousands, and in a short time there was a shanty on every claim and speculators began arriving from every state in the union. The semi-arid character of the great plains, long known to stockman and Indians, but denied by land agents and discredited by eager and hopeful settlers, asserted itself shortly after the first settlements were made and with unmistakable emphasis. Not an acre of crops was harvested in 1879. The soil, which had produced nothing the previous summer, responded in eighteen eighty to irrigation. Provided from a ditch dug from the Arkansas River. The Garden City experiment became the mecca of students of irrigation throughout the wide territory which had

hither to depended upon uncertain rainfall. The extension of irrigation was urged as the price of prosperity. And at once began a revolution of the industrial methods of the Arkansas Valley region in western Kansas. Irrigation was the first remedy applied in the southwest to overcome the effects of lack of rainfall, and after years of experimental work on the part of the earlier farmers, efficient and economical means of pumping water from underground sources have been developed. While the cost of irrigation from pumping plants is generally greater than it is under a ditch taking water by gravity flow, the certainty of being able to get water whenever it's needed by the owner of the pumping plant is valuable and enables him to grow more abundant crops as a rule then if he depended on river water, which is not always available. Among the pioneers in the development of pumping plants for irrigation in western Kansas, were the Carter brothers. In 1889, W. O. Carter and Ian Gouse put in a

pumping plant in the southwest corner of Stevens Park in Garden City. S. Schulman, an early days settler in western Kansas, was also closely identified with the development of practical irrigation systems in this part of the Arkansas Valley. The first sod was turned in Finney County in 1878. It is now 1931. There are a number of people still living here who can tell the story of those 53 years of agriculture, a story of failures and conquests. During the '80s, the greater part of the available land was taken up. The seasons were very favorable to crops, and the country boomed. Then came a period extending into the '90s of a series of crop failures, and added to that was low prices. The years of 1891 through '94 marked the darkest days western Kansas has ever known, and thousands of settlers deserted their farms in this region. Since those years, however, there has been a gradual and almost

uninterrupted agricultural advancement. Finney County is almost purely agricultural. The growth of the towns and development of the county have been largely the result of crop production. Finney County now produces profitably the largest variety of crops in the state and modern machinery makes it possible to farm a large acreage. In 1880 the farmer thought it a wonderful achievement when he could turn soil at the rate of four acres per day and can seed eight. In 1930, tractors are pulling three grain drills and sowing 100 acres a day. Finney County made some records in 1930 that proved the possibilities of this rich agricultural section. Finney ships more alfalfa, hay, seed, and meal then any other county in Kansas. Having the only sugar factory in the state, Garden City naturally leads in sugar shipments. Finney County far surpasses all others in the state in the production of sugar beets. Finney County leads all others of the state in growing and shipping of grain

seed and there is a constantly growing demand for grain seed raised under conditions as they exist here. Sweet clover, black amber and orange cane seed corn, wheat and many varieties of sorghum grains to be planted in other places are shipped annually. [MUSIC] Sequoyah Sequoyah County was named by the Kansas legislature in 1873 before it had a single white inhabitant. It was named in honor of a Cherokee Indian, who was the most remarkable man of his race. Sequoyah County was attached to Ford County for judicial purposes and was never organized. The making of homes, the foundation of towns and laying the basis for all future development of a great county were begun in old Sequoyah. But on October 1, 1884,

Sequoyah County disappeared forever from the map and with it other unorganized territory was organized as a county and called Finney. Finney County was created by an act of legislature in 1883 and was named in honor of Lieutenant Governor Finney. At the time of its organization, Finney was the largest county in the state. By the summer of 1885, there was much talk of building a courthouse. C.J. Jones offered to build the courthouse. "I will build a stone building to be completed on or before October the twenty fifth, 1885, of good stone walls not less than 18 inches in thickness with a 13 foot ceiling, with iron ore tin roof, four rooms and two vaults which will be fireproof." In the summer of 1901, the county decided to secure better quarters. The Jones Courthouse was abandoned, except as the jail. Judge Finnup donated a building and land to be used as a courthouse. The building was remodeled and used over 27

years. A movement for a new courthouse began in 1928. W. G. Hopkins, who was county clerk at that time, and the county commissioners deserved much credit for the building, which now stands as the pride of Finney County on the original courthouse site. The founders of Garden City and the first to make settlement on homesteads in Finney County were the Fulton brothers. They had ranged over this region for several years following the business of hunting buffalo. In February, 1878, eight, James R. Fulton, William D. Fulton and his son Link arrived at the present site of Garden City bringing with him Charles VanTrump, the county's surveyor from Dodge City. The land was loose, sandy loam and covered with sagebrush and soap weeds, but there were no trees. Main Street ran

directly north and south dividing William D. and James R. Fulton's claims. As soon as they could get building material, they erected two frame houses. These first settlers lived a life of thrilling adventure, yet there were many lonely hours. Mrs. Clair Wort, daughter of William D. Fulton, recalls that first year. "There was not a sign of civilization on either side of the railroad. Just mile after mile of barren prairie. The only sound was a howling of the coyotes and the fierce wind." The cattlemen did not want to see the settlers come in and did great many things to discourage them. Shortly after they arrived, the cattlemen came to the camp and said it was impossible to raise anything here and urged the Fultons to leave. But they decided to stay, and that summer of 1878 all the crops planted produced bountifully. The name of Garden City was suggested because of the fine garden in the Fulton yard. Mr. and Mrs. D. R. Menke and three children established a residence in Garden City in August of 1878.

Garden City was not recognized by the Santa Fe Railroad as a station, but the conductor was kind enough to slow the train down and let them off about a half a mile up the track and they walked by the little village. Very soon after his arrival, Mr. Menke opened the first store in Garden City. He was not a man of wealth but had ambition and realized the opportunities of a new country. In the spring of eighteen seventy nine people begin coming to locate in Garden City and on surrounding homesteads. In April, C. J. Jones met Frederick Finnup who had come to Kansas to look for a location. He was persuaded by Mr. Jones to come on to Garden City. Mr. Finnup Finnup was at once convinced with the future growth and development of the town and decided to stay. The gaining of Frederick Finnup as a citizen of the new town was of second importance to securing the railroad. Because his ambitions were backed by means, what which others lacked. Finnup began at once the erection of a full

two story building. The ground floor to be used as a storeroom and the rooms above as a place for his family to live. As soon as Mr. Finnup completed his first building, Mrs. Finnup and their three children came to Garden City. The sun was just coming up when they got off the train and as she stood on the platform looking at the few scattered buildings and the county so barren of trees and vegetation, she was terribly disappointed. "Old Fred", she exclaimed "why did you bring me to such a place." B. L. Stotts arrived in Garden City in eighteen eighty. Mrs. Stotts and their children did not come until May of eighteen eighty one. Mr. Stotts was on hand to welcome them at the train, but his wife was not favorably impressed when she looked over the town. The next day Mr. Stotts took her for a drive in the country. "When Mr. Stotts took me out I was wearing a heavy brown veil, in all the time he was telling me what a fine country this would be, the tears

were falling unnoticed by him beneath the veil." Mr. and Mrs. O. V. Fulsom heard of the great opportunities awaiting people in Sequoyah County so they sold their home and with a few others came here to establish a new home early in eighteen eighty two. "Before we could irrigate and we were living on a dry land nothing growing, we frequently have callers from land agents showing a prospective buyers our beautiful country. One gentleman was from Michigan and I will never forget the look of pity he gave me as he asked, 'Mrs. Fulsom, why did you ever come here?' I didn't have the courage to tell him we had come because we had heard it was such a grand place to grow onions." Garden City, a village in the unorganized county of Sequoyah, was incorporated and became a city of the third class on January thirteenth, eighteen eighty three. The first ordinance was adopted in February. It prohibited the running at large of cattle and all livestock within the city limits. An ordiance was passed in april

requiring property owners to erect hitching racks in front of their premises, that growing trees might be protected. Garden City began to move and people poured into the county. But not all of the people, who came to Garden City in eighteen eighty three to eighty six, were boomers. A great many substantial business firms were established at that time by men who have remained permanent residents since that time. George Innes, an ambitious young merchant, came to Garden City to establish a store in the spring of eighteen eighty three. The Kansas Lumber Company established a lumber yard in Garden City early in eighteen eighty three. They probably sold more lumber than any other one yard. In June eighteen eighty four Jacob Carter came to Garden City and engaged in the mercantile business with his brother N.M. Carter, who had come in eighteen seventy nine. The Carter brothers hardware store is one of the oldest establishments in Garden City. J. W. Mack came to Garden City in eighteen eighty four and developed a fine farm. His son George opened a grocery store in eighteen eighty nine and has been in the same room in the Windsor building since that time.

Andrew J. Hoskinson then came to Finney County in eighteen eighty five. He was a hardworking lawyer giving the closest attention to the business that engaged his time and abilities. For some years he was a partner of William R. Hopkins. H. M. Knox has been a resident of Garden City since eighteen eighty six. The capital which he brought with him was invested in a store and bakery. Many pioneers look back now and wonder what they would have done if it had not been for the credit extended them by Knox. The Dickinson Jewelry Store is one of the oldest firms in Garden City. It was established on March ninth, eighteen eighty five by G.W. Dickinson. James Dunn opened his store in Garden City in the mid eighties and operated it for many years. One does not explore very far into the history of Finney County before coming upon the activity of those men who followed the profession of physician. Dr. H.S. Lawrence came to Garden City in eighteen eighty one and hung out his shingle as a physician. Dr. Andrew Sabien came here in July eighteen eighty four. He was a thoroughly competent and educated physician and surgeon, and had the respect of everyone.

Dr. R. E. Gray has been a drugist and succesful physician in Garden City since eighteen eighty five. During the years of age eighteen eighty five, eighty six and eighty seven, a rush was made for western Kansas and a settler came in for every quarter section. The United States land office was located at Garden City and this drew people to southwest Kansas. I. R. Holmes was agent for the sale of land for the Sante Fe Railroad and his offices were located in Garden City. The streets of Garden City were crowded with horses, wagons, buggies and ox teams. Long lines of people stood out in the weather waiting in turn to call for mail at the post office. And there was always a crowd in front of the United States Land Office to make filing on land. In order to escape the crowd during closing hours, the officials used a ladder which they lowered from a rear window. Garden City grew very rapidly and soon reached a

population of six thousand. Additions were laid out to the town and there was much speculation in buying and selling lots. The largest additions were those of C.J. Jones and John Stevens. There was keen rivalry between these two, and their efforts to out do each other did much to boost the town. The following notes from the Garden City papers show a little of the spirit of rivalry which existed between the two men. "Mr. Stevens bought a strip of land just west of the Buffalo Hotel. He now owns the outlet to Grand avenue and tends to hold it to prevent any more buildings going up in that direction and thus forced the business to go to the main street where his property is." "If Jones is elected I will not build the opera house." "Mr. Stevens would have abandoned this months ago if he could reasonably have gotten out of it. The facts are it looks as though the opera house has all been a myth." "Jones is going ahead with his stone block and that compels me to build." C.J. Jones built the buffalo block from stone

quarried at kindel. Mr. Stevens built the opera house and then went Jones one better in eighteen eighty seven by building the Windsor Block to the height of four stories. The night that the Stevens' Opera House was formally opened a committee raised funds and presented Stevens with a gold headed cane. Mrs. Stevens, beautifully dressed, entered her private box through a door connected with her suite of rooms in the Windsor. During the height of the boom the town had nine lumber yards. Lumber was hauled from the east and all directions to build up inland towns and to improve homesteads. Thirteen drug stores were in operation. The town had two daily newspapers. Everybody used coal lamps and a few were on posts up and down main street. There was no city waterworks and everybody drank from wells which were strong of alkali. Passenger trains of two and three sections came in daily loaded with people and most of them got off at Garden City. It was a common joke that the trains might as well stop at Garden City for everybody got off there. At the

height of the boom, Garden City held a magnificent exposition promoting the wonders of the region. Governor John Martin delivered the opening address giving tribute to the pioneers of southwest Kansas. "The loneliness immensity of the plains had no terrors for you. You invaded through solitude you pushed the frontier steadily westward. You plowed and planted and digged and sowed. You were determined to conquer the land by irrigation if necessary. You came to stay and you conquered. There is something splendid in the march of civilization into and over an unpeopled land. Something grander even than the advance of the victorious army. It is better to build up then to destroy. Better to redeem a desert then make a new one. The march of the armies of industry in peace across the plains, people in their solitudes conquering the wilderness and forcing from its soil a fattness, is an achievement romantic and inspiring and you, people of western Kansas, are the heroes of this conquest." [MUSIC]

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